Tag / palakkad

by whatsonsidsmind

Travel Diaries | Attappadi | Day 2

Pic description – Malleswaran Mudi as seen from a tribal hamlet in Attappadi

Written by: Siddhartha Krishnan | 6 Min Read

We woke up to a bright sunny morning. All that traveling the previous day had battered our bodies a bit. A good night’s sleep was the perfect cure for it. We stepped out of our cottage to be welcomed by the cry of peacocks calling out to their mates. They wandered around the property as freely as us. Although shy, it was clear that they had lost their fear of humans. After a cup of coffee, we took a stroll to the neighborhood store to buy a few essentials. The sky was clear that day, and the fragrant smells of the foliage renewed our vigor.

Back at the hotel, breakfast was ready. ‘Chana Bhatura’ and ‘Puttu and Kadala curry’ was on offer. An unusual combination of North and South Indian dishes, but it worked well. The young tribal boy (not giving away names for the sake of privacy) who had told us about a tribal hamlet uphill was at our service. A conversation with him brought to light places deep in the forest which were off-limits to outsiders. He spoke of mesmerizing waterfalls, viewpoints, meadows, and river streams within the forest that far surpassed, in beauty, the places we had seen so far. We couldn’t substantiate his claims, but his description of these places sparked our imagination. Our only option was to create images of these idyllic locations in our minds.

Pic description – Treetop Silent Valley Resort

However, the boy had agreed to take us to a Muduga tribal village later in the day, and that was decent consolation for us, considering we were only on a two-day trip to this mysterious, forested region. We didn’t have sufficient time to win the trust of the locals and explore more.

The area around the Silent Valley National Park is mostly dominated by the Muduga tribe. Some of the staff working in our resort were from that community. However, in Attapadi as a whole, it is the Irula tribe who are in the majority. Government estimates suggest the total tribal population to be around 35000. Approximately 80% of them are Irulas, 10% are Mudugas and 8% are Kurumbas. Each of these tribes has its unique culture, religious beliefs, and dialect which distinguishes them from each other and the settlers.

As per the Census of 1951, 90% of Attappadi’s population was tribal back then. Now that figure has been halved to 44%. This was due to the mass migration of settlers from other parts of Kerala and the nearby areas of Tamil Nadu. The steady migration of tribal people to different parts of Kerala and elsewhere was also a contributing factor, but not a defining one.

The principal sources of income of the tribal people are agriculture and livestock rearing. They grow plantain, coconut, and cereals. Minor forest produces like honey, ginger, and cardamom also contribute to their income. This region is also known for its coffee and areca nuts, but these are mostly grown by the non-tribal population. Although they now have access to all kinds of foods, their staple as hunter-gatherers initially consisted of wild roots, tubers, seeds, fruits, and meat. They have an understanding of medicinal plants and heal their sick using methods passed down by their ancestors.

The tribals of Attappadi dwell within hamlets called ‘Ooru’ which is a cluster of small houses. There are an estimated 192 hamlets scattered around Attappadi. It is to one of these hamlets we were planning to go to later in the day.

The young boy also spoke about how his ancestors traveled in the past. The distances we see on GPS were meaningless to them. The understanding of states and borders was irrelevant. They traveled on ancient trails left by their ancestors, who had a deep understanding of the forest and its dangers. They gave the forest the respect it deserved and took only what was required from it.

After breakfast, we drove to the Malleswaram Temple which we had not visited the previous day. Located in Chemmannur, at a distance of 5 km from Mukkali on the Mannarkkad – Anakkatti road, it is a place, I was told not to miss. The temple was included in the Swadesh Darshan Project of the Central Government, and the Shivaratri celebrations there are a major attraction. The festivities had recently concluded; the remains of which could be seen all around the clear, open land on the opposite side of the temple.

Pic description – Malleswaram temple at Chemmannur, Attappadi

At Malleswaram, Lord Shiva is Mallan and Goddess Parvathy is Malli. Here, the Irulas are the keeper of traditions; they hold the right to protect the rituals passed down through generations. On a normal day, the Irula priests invoke the gods three times a day to bless their land and their ventures. Their pleas reach a crescendo on Shivratri night when a group of Irula priests, and young men, venture through an ancient trail to reach the top of a mountain called the Malleswaran Mudi—the highest peak in the Attappadi Forest Reserve at an elevation of 1664 meters. The Irulas believe the mountain to be a giant Shiva Lingam. On their way, sometimes, they are attacked by elephants. But they know how to fend them off, without being overly aggressive. The priests perform rituals at the top of the mountain and spend the night there; after which the festivities are brought to an end.

To us, the temple presented a humble image. Nothing grandiose or loud. We headed in, bowed before the deities, and sought their blessings. The Malleswaran Mudi could be seen clearly from the temple. We wondered how adventurous it would be to walk on that forbidden trail with the Adivasis and spend a night on top of the sacred mountain? What kind of stories would the Irulas tell us under a starry sky in the absolute wilderness?

With these thoughts in mind, we headed back to the resort.

Pic description – At Malleswaram Temple, Attappadi

We opted for a light lunch that day and thereafter took a short nap. At 4 pm we were fresh as daisies to venture to the Muduga Ooru. We took a left on the interlocked road leading to Mukkali Junction to head uphill. This road is only used by the tribal population and outsiders are strictly prohibited as confirmed by the boards that we saw on the way. The forest got thicker with every passing mile. To be honest the seclusion did feel a bit scary. However, our young guide assured us that we were safe. “As long as you are with me, you are safe”, he asserted.

The road snaked through the hill until we reached a meadow. Two old looking tribal men were sharing a beedi a few meters ahead. We got out of the car and took jittery steps towards them. They didn’t seem too pleased to see us. One of them called out to the boy and gave him an earful. A negotiation followed. It went on for a while.

We felt helpless because we couldn’t contribute in any way to pacify the irate natives as their language was alien. Moreover, we weren’t sure if opening our mouths was a good idea in the first place. However, a cheeky grin suddenly appeared on the old man’s face, suggesting that he was pulling the mickey out of us all this while. We were shaken; not having anticipated such dry humor in the middle of a jungle.

The boy led us to a mud path that led to the village. A few curious dogs rushed towards us, sniffed, and then went about doing their business. The old man who had his eyes on us broke into a dirge. At least that’s what it sounded like. The boy didn’t seem too bothered. “He’s had a tipple. That’s all. Moreover, he is not native of this village”, he assured. We smiled; more out of relief than anything else.

As we went past a cluster of small dwellings, we realized that the natives were shy. They maintained minimal eye contact with us. Their clothes weren’t too different from the settlers, and their language sounded like a mix of many languages. Some of the words, though, were familiar. The government had built one-room concrete houses with solar panels installed on roofs. The houses also had adequate water supply.

The boy told us that in the past his ancestors used to live in improvised bamboo huts. Back then, temporary shelters were the only option because as foragers they were under constant threat of being attacked by wild animals or being ravaged by bad weather. Now these structures are built to shelter poultry and goats. We had spotted a couple of them at the entrance of the Ooru.

Jeeps with government permits were the only mode of transportation for the natives, and on our way up we did see a few pass by. Over the years, measures have been taken by the government to educate the tribal population and employ them in government jobs; so that they could be brought into the mainstream. But this was a choice given to them and not a compulsion. So many had opted not to.

Despite the calm, I could sense the discomfort. It was apparent that the Mudugas didn’t want to be disturbed by us city dwellers. Some unwanted past experiences could have been the reason behind their wariness.

A short walk took us to a clearing. We soon realized that what we were standing on was a football ground. It was netted on all sides. The panoramic view was quite stunning. To our left and right were step farms belonging to the Mudugas. During summers the danger of being attacked by elephants is quite high. The pachyderms come down the hills in search of water and plantains often leading to a man-animal conflict.

Pic description – View from a Muduga Ooru near Silent Valley National Park

“Isn’t that the Malleswaran Mudi?”, I asked the boy exuberantly, pointing at a familiar looking peak. The boy nodded in agreement. I wasn’t expecting to see the mountain from there. It was the clearest view of the sacred mountain that we had got until then. It was then that the boy told us that the Irulas believe that Shiva or Mallan was from their lineage and the Mudugas believe that Parvathy or Malli was from their tribe. Their marriage was an alliance between two tribal communities. I didn’t know what to make of it. But it made for a fascinating story!

As I drove back to the resort, I promised myself that such unconventional destinations will be on my travel list going forward. That night under a starry sky at the resort, my cousin and I were in high spirits. We made a list of places that we needed to visit. After a few drinks, such lists were inevitable. But somehow, I felt, that another visit to Attappadi was on the cards.

The next day we left for Palakkad after breakfast. We reached close to noon and after a nice, wholesome meal cooked by Amma, I crashed onto my bed to take a long nap. There was just one more place that I had to visit to culminate my holiday. A reservoir with a spectacular sunset point.

Kava Island Reservoir in Malampuzha is not a place known to tourists. But it had gained popularity among bikers and locals over the years. I drove through the meandering roads of Palakkad flanked by florescent green paddy fields on both sides. My cousin, whom I trust more than GPS when in Palakkad was there to guide me, and my parents were enjoying the sights of nature from the rear seats. It had been a while since they had been out.

Onion, plantain and chili fritters, and hot cups of tea perfectly complemented the wonderful sunset that we witnessed that day. I couldn’t have asked for a better ending to my short holiday.

Pic description – Sunset at Kava Island Reservoir, Malampuzha, Palakkad

***********************************

About the author –

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also a passionate blogger, and on his website, www.whatsonsidsmind.com, you can find his travel diaries, food stories, book recommendations, and movie reviews.

All rights reserved by whatsonsidsmind.com

by whatsonsidsmind

Travel Diaries | Attappadi | Day 1

Pic description – Night in Attappadi

Written by Siddhartha Krishnan | 5 Min Read

Attappadi, a tribal taluk in Palakkad district, is that corner of the town about which everyone has a story. But folks narrating them always do so in third person, and rarely as a personal experience. It’s not that these places have dubious histories; it’s just that they are mysterious. It was the mystique that piqued my interest at first; later it was the promise of solitude.

There was, however, another selfish reason to visit Attappadi. To recce a certain location; a river stream that I had seen on the internet, for a story that I had begun to write.

We often read about pristine rivers and virgin forests in the descriptions of nature by poets. Soon after, we realize that these places have to be dreamed into life because they are the creations of an imaginative mind. If we are lucky, we may stumble upon them by accident, and rarely by will. But this place seemed real. And I couldn’t leave it to imagination. So last month, I took a cousin along with whom I had been planning a trip to Attappadi for ages, to explore its wonders.

We left home at 7am, taking the NH 966 route, that goes via Mundur to reach Mukkali in Attappadi. The journey was 2.5 hours long, but we had planned to take a minor diversion to Kanhirapuzha Dam halfway into the journey. On this route, such diversions can take one to idyllic spots that are within touching distance of rivers, waterfalls and mountain ranges.

Pic description – Kanhirapuzha Dam site

At 8 in the morning, it was childish of us to expect the park adjoining the dam to be open. However, we were in the mood for adventure, so this little failure could not dampen our spirits. We drove on, once again, to be embraced by the sheen of tarmac and the green of the mountains. Kerala is God’s own country for a reason. Within every 100-200 kms, you get a hill station, a forest, a river and a beach, all close to each other. Nature wants to show off. So getting bored is not an option.

After crossing Mundur, we stopped for breakfast at Mannarkkad in one of the many ‘thattukadas’. These small eating joints in Kerala serve the most lip-smacking local delicacies (usually cooked on wood fire) that are unmatched in taste by the upmarket restaurants. What’s more, they don’t burn your pockets.

Egg roast, idiyappams and dosas were on offer. They were delicious.

Pic description – Thattukada at Mannarkkad

Recharged, we drove on and reached the foothills of the Western ghats to merge with the Mannarkkad-Anakkatti road. This road thereafter meanders through many hair-pin bends to reach Attappadi. It was spring, and we were told that these forests were at their magical best during monsoons. We may have missed out on that, but nothing stopped our wild minds from imagining those bright greens covered in mist.

We reached Mukkali junction at 10 am. A left from there took us to the entrance of one of the last undisturbed tracts of the Western ghats—Silent Valley National Park. They say that the sound of the cicadas is absent here, hence the name. Our car was now on the interlocked road that took us to a police checkpoint. The place is under constant vigil by the police, and rightly so. Attappadi and its reserve forests are home to three tribal communities—Irulas, Kurumbas and Mudugas. Each of these communities has their unique culture. The forest is also home to rare species of flora and fauna that need protection.

After finishing with the formalities, we headed to the only resort in that part of Attappadi—Treetop Resort, Silent Valley.

We checked into our rooms, freshened up, and took a stroll around the property. The resort had 12 cottages of varying sizes and three 3 tree huts. They offered non-ac rooms which were fairly spacious and clean. The property was sufficiently well-maintained. The amenities included free wi-fi, a swimming pool and a kid’s play area. For an extra charge, they arrange for campfires, jeep trekking and forest safari. The resort has a multi-cuisine restaurant, but the menu has limited options. Our cottage for two was at one end of the property, but we could drive right up to it.

A quick chat with the hotel staff revealed that all the major sightseeing places were at the other end of Attappadi. This included the location that I was in search of. GPS had painted a different picture; so this came as a shock. Two different places having the same name was the problem.

Pic description – Cottage at Treetop Resort, Silent Valley

Thankfully, we had an extra day at hand. So we could alter our plans. We made the expedition to the other end of town, right away, and planned to be back before sunset.

Back on the Mannarkkad-Anakkatti road, we were on our way to a viewpoint called Narassimukku. On the way, we saw the Malleswaran Temple, which was on my list of places to see. We had to get back to it later since the sun was blazing by then. Thereafter, we reached a junction where the sign board suggested a road to Ooty. The route was a scenic one; we were told. But at a distance of 95 kms, we knew that this trip had to be a standalone one.

Five minutes later, we saw a bridge. It was called the Bhavani River bridge. We parked the car by the roadside and walked towards it. It looked similar to the place I was in search of, but quickly realised it wasn’t. However, the place was breathtakingly beautiful. You couldn’t see human settlements there with the naked eye, but they are there. Hiding within a blanket of green. The place seemed quite famous, as passersby were taking the diversion to the bridge. A small crowd had gathered to savour the sight of mountains at a distance, and to take a dip in the Bhavani River that originates in the Nilgiri Hills and flows towards the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu. The river was quite shallow. In the monsoons, it is at its fiercest.

Pic description – Bhavani River Bridge

We drove on and soon reached the scenic village of Agali. A short drive uphill from there took us to Narassimukku. We saw a few tourists at a distance taking a mountain trail to various vantage points. There were hardly any trees around. It was an open flat land on the top of the hill. We got a clear, panoramic view of the valley. Some scenes from the superhit Malayalam film ‘Ayyappan Koshiyum’, were shot at this location.

Since it was lunchtime, our stomachs had begun to grumble. We headed down hill to Agali to have lunch at a small restaurant that we had spotted on our way up. In places like these, you cannot expect a lavish menu, so we took what was on offer.

Pic description – View Point at Narissimukku

Thereafter, we were back on the Anakkatti road, The forest got thicker with every passing mile. A river stream suddenly appeared to our left, which lifted my spirits. ‘Chittur River Stream’ was the place I was in search. A low bridge characterized it. And, of course, a lot more. But the bridge was easier to spot from the road, so I was on the lookout. We passed by a hanging bridge, which happened to be someone’s private property.

GPS urged us to keep going. Could it be trusted in these forests? I wondered.

We halted now and then to ask the locals. But they hadn’t heard of a river stream by that name. My hopes dwindled. Maybe the place wasn’t as idyllic as I had imagined it to be? Maybe such places were too common for the locals to boast about?

GPS, though, was still pleading for us to go further. We drove ahead at a snail’s pace until it asked us to stop. “You have arrived at your destination”, it said. We looked around. Nothing.

“All of this for nothing!” I smirked. My cousin grinned back.

A herdsman with his goats passed by us. We showed him the pictures. He listened patiently to our description of the location. A smile appeared on his face. He pointed northwards and said, “A little more. Just walk”.

We walked.

100 metres ahead … finally, a glimpse of something that appeared like a bridge. We hurried down the gravel road to meet it.

A minute later, I let out a sigh of relief. The place was exactly as I had thought it to be!

No human settlements in sight. Just a clear stream; its sparkling waters were home to shoals of small fish. The low bridge invited us to sit on its edge and watch the stream flow into the abyss. The surrounding forest embraced us. And the sound of chirping birds nestled within them made us feel welcome.

A man on a scooter crossed the bridge and halted next to us. He was a farmer who grew areca nuts in the forested hills behind us. We were eager to know his story. And he was happy to tell us about the place, its people, their agricultural practices, the changes over the years and anecdotes from his personal life. We didn’t have to provoke him to give away these stories. It was as if he was waiting for someone to talk to.

We spent an hour drenching our feet in the cold, transparent water of the stream. Splashing some of it on our faces and gazing at the ethereal beauty of unspoiled nature. It had been a long day. And this was a fitting end.

Pic description – Chittur River Stream

We drove back to the resort, feeling contented. The air was much cooler as the sun had begun its descent. The farmers’ stories ignited our minds. We wanted to know more about the tribal communities of Attapadi. At the resort, that evening, we met a young tribal boy, who worked in the resort. He spoke of a small tribal village up in the mountains. The area was supposedly off-limit for tourists. But he assured us that in his company we would be allowed into the village.

We were thrilled at that assurance!

Before I went to sleep that night, I saw a creature that perhaps lent its name to this forested region. It was on the bathroom wall—a leech. Also called ‘Atta’ in Malayalam.

Pic description – An Atta in Attapadi

In the next chapter of the Attappadi travel diary …

  • Trip to a Muduga Tribal village
  • A visit to the Malleswaran temple – a place with a unique history.
  • Fun drive to Kava Island Reservoir in Palakkad with family.

About the author –

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also a passionate blogger, and on his website, www.whatsonsidsmind.com, you can find his travel diaries, food stories, book recommendations and movie reviews.

All rights reserved by whatsonsidsmind.com

by whatsonsidsmind

Nelliyampathy. An Escapist’s Paradise.

By Siddhartha Krishnan . 5 Min Read

(Note: article contains links to hotels, tourist places etc which will direct you to relevant sites on the internet)

Nestled, within a quiet little-known corner of God’s own country, in the district of Palakkad is a place called Nelliyampathy. You could call it a hill station. But I rather not. For me, Nelliyampathy is a place like no other. It has the weather of a hill station but not the fancy hotels, impatient crowds, street hawkers and amusement parks. However, this place offers you something that the famous hill stations in the country cannot provide you anymore. Silence. Hence, if you are looking for creature comforts and fine dining restaurants, please don’t come here. This is a place reserved for people who want to escape the “noise”. It is an escapist’s paradise. Trust me on this one.

pothundy

(Pothundy Dam)

Although, Palakkad is my hometown, I discovered Nelliyampathy only ten years ago through a childhood friend. But I had often heard of this place from my relatives who stay in the foothills of Nelliyampathy in a place called Nenmara. Before you start the ascent to the hills of Nelliyampathy you get a spellbinding view of the Pothundy dam. This irrigation dam was constructed in the 19th century. It is an earth dam with an unusual feature; that its core wall was constructed out of a mixture of quick lime and jaggery.

The drive from Nenmara to Nelliyampathy is breath-taking providing spectacular views of the Pothundy dam from the many viewpoints on the way. The journey upwards takes you through ten hair pin bends and you will reach your destination in about an hour.

Mountain stream

(One of the many mountain streams)

As soon, as you reach Nelliyampathy, the first thing that will strike you is the silence. What you will hear though is the rhythms of flowing streams and the buzz of cicadas. I can advise you now, to go and visit the many famous sightseeing spots of this place. But I won’t! Instead, first take in the breeze. Get out of your car and walk through the desolate roads and soak in all the good energy.

I am compelled to quote Marie Curie here. She said, “All my life through, the new sights of nature made me rejoice like a child”. It is this joy that you will derive from the place.

So, take that road leading to the tea estates and venture into the small lanes leading you to a mountain stream. Sit down beside these streams. Touch the sparkling waters and sprinkle some on your face. Erase all your thoughts and just live in the moment. For truly, this is the unique gift of this place. Freedom and absolute abandon. If you have been to Nelliyampathy and not experienced this, then you have missed out on something.

My relatives often ask me, “What is there to do in this place?”. My answer to them is, “I go there to do nothing!”. For there is not much to do in a place like this. But that is the charm of places like these. Isn’t it? The adventure enthusiasts though can embark on a trekking trip or take an off-road jeep ride!

off road jeep

(Off road Jeep ride)

The much-famed “jeep ride”, which I have endeavoured to take a couple of times is something that I would suggest everyone to try. It might give you a backache, but it is worth it. You will marvel at the skill of these jeep drivers who will drive you through terrains you thought can never be conquered. What you will get in return is pure joy. They will take you to places where humanity is alien. In this 7 km journey through basically rocks and muddy puddles, you might just find a nice place to sit and gaze at the beautiful hills of the Western Ghats. If you want to go easy on your pocket with this one, carry a few friends along.

But if there is one thing that you should do here, is to hear the stories of the locals. Visit the many “thattukadas” (small rustic eating joints) and talk to the locals, while munching on some scrumptious meals. I assure you that they will narrate stories of the place. Stories about wildlife, the tribal population, lives of tea plantation workers, film shoots and so on. They make for some interesting hearing. Indulge the staff of your hotel as well, their hospitality and their stories will astound you in equal measure. Everyone here has a little more time on their hands than city folks.

20170929_193608_LLS

(Bonfire at ITL Hotel, Nelliyampathy)

As mentioned earlier, don’t come here looking for five-star luxury. Be prepared to be minimalist in approach and adventurous in spirit. However, the hotels here have all the basic amenities and are privately owned. Even if the restaurant menus carry all kinds of cuisines, do try the “nadan style” (village/native) varieties. Moreover, you may not get everything that is there on the menu.

For your stay you might also want to check out the home-stays and resorts of the place, which are decent. But don’t compare them to the ones available in the more famous hill stations. What they will provide you though is more indulgent staff members. If you go on a weekday you might be surprised to realize that you are the only one in the hotel with the entire staff at your service.

Of the many places that you should visit in Nelliyampathy is Seetharkundu. This is a picnic spot where many tourists frequently visit from Palakkad or Coimbatore during weekends. But they are mostly day visitors who leave for their homes by evening. Seetharkundu, is a viewpoint situated 8 kms away from Nelliyampathy, where Lord Rama, Laxmana and Seetha are believed to have rested during their exile.

seetharkundu

(Seetharkundu, Nelliyampathy)

The Palakkad Gap (a geographical phenomenon in the Western Ghats) which is a low mountain pass separating Coimbatore and Palakkad is visible from here. Seetharkundu is a vantage point which will give you a jaw dropping view of the valley, as it stretches out like a giant carpet for as far as the eyes can see. You might also get a glimpse of a 100-metre waterfall from here.

The place is also home to the Asian Elephant, Indian Gaur, Leopards, Bears and the Giant Squirrel, in case you are a wildlife enthusiast. But you must be lucky to spot them in the wild without effort. Palagapandi estate with its lovely tea, coffee and cardamom plantations is another popular tourist destination. The estate houses a charming bungalow which was built during the British Raj.

poabs

(Tea estates of Nelliyampathy)

If you are a nature lover, a vagabond or just someone seeking new stories to hear, come to Nelliyampathy and it won’t disappoint you. So, pack your bags and give this place a try.

(Check out the video on the post to get an idea of what to expect from this place)

Photo credits: Ashwin Ramesh, Akash Singh and Siddhartha Krishnan

How to get there:

Nelliyampathy is located about 70 kms from Palakkad and 116 kms from Coimbatore. Getting to this place will not be a problem since the roads are very good. The nearest railway station is in Palakkad (65 kms) and the nearest airport is in Coimbatore (127 kms).

Click here for location on google maps.

Best time to visit:

The best time to visit Nelliyampathy is between October to March. During these months the nights are cool and the days moderate in temperature.
Hotels:

Online booking for most of the hotels, resorts and home stays of this place is not available. So, suggesting some of the ones I have been to or heard of:

ITL Holidays and Resorts, Nelliyampathy – its the place where I generally stay when I visit the place. The food, accommodation and service are all very decent and value for money.

Green Land Farmhouses – located near Seetharkundu it provides an excellent view of the valley. Details available on tripadvisor. Could be a good option if you are going with family and kids.

Related articles:

Nelliyampathy Hills, Palakkad. Kerala Tourism

Places to visit in Nelliyampathy. HolidayIQ.com

Nelliyampathy. Wikipedia page

Home