Tag / Travelogue

by whatsonsidsmind

Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 2 – Kasar Devi

Pic description – Stairs leading to the Kasar Devi Temple

Written by Siddhartha Krishnan | 5 Min Read

(Note: This article contains links of routes, hotels and tourist places for potential travelers)

If there was any semblance of fatigue that had crept into our system after the activities at Mukteshwar, it was quickly vanquished by a surge of excitement that we felt once our cab took the sharp left onto the Mukteshwar-Shaitla road to head towards Almora. The route adorned with alpine trees offered spectacular views of the snow-capped Himalayas, keeping our spirits high. It was a bright, sunny afternoon, with the temperature hovering around a pleasant 12 degrees. Although the drive to Almora was only 2 hours long, we took several breaks in between.

Nature had come alive—birds sang and leaves fluttered merrily in the perfumed air that caressed our cheeks. These hills are used by the Indian Veterinary Research Institute (IVRI) for medicinal research, which explained—the aromatic air that we breathed. My only regret was that our smartphones could not fully capture the magisterial beauty of the Himalayan peaks. Well, I guess, some things are just meant to savor.

We reached a small town called Deoli around 2pm and stopped for lunch. Again, the menu at the restaurant resembled the ones I had seen before. However, there were several local sweet dishes on the menu to satisfy my sugar cravings. At Mukteshwar, I had tried an indigenous lentil gravy called ‘gahat ki dal’. This time I opted for another lentil dish called ‘bhat ki chudkani’, while my wife dug into an aloo paratha and my son happily slurped his noodle soup. We also ordered a sweet dish called “singori or singodi”—which tastes similar to kalakhand. It is made of khoya and is wrapped in maalu leaf which lends its unique flavour to the dish.

Pic description – ‘bhat ki chudkani’ a local dish

Post lunch we made our way to Almora town which was another 10 kms from Deoli. Located at an altitude of 1642 meters above sea level, Almora is one of the more populous towns of Kumaon. It was founded in 1568 by Kalyan Chand from the Chand dynasty. However, the place finds a mention in ancient lore, specifically in the Vishnu Purana and the Mahabharata.

Energized by the delightful meal, my wife started narrating her childhood stories at Almora to our cab driver, who was also a native of the place. I was listening attentively to her stories, some of which I had heard before, without her knowing. My phone secretly captured their conversation.

Twenty minutes later, we reached Almora mall road. The town was a departure from the solitude of Mukteshwar. It was bustling and had several commercial establishments, concrete buildings and tiny shops adorning its hills. You could either take the road that snaked across the hills or take a flight of stairs to reach these structures. We took the stairs to reach the 200-year-old house that happened to be my wife’s maternal home, which she hadn’t visited in 25 years. It was abandoned at the turn of the century due to a freak accident. Thereafter, only the ground floor was occupied by tenants, who were kind enough to show us around. It was my wife’s homecoming, and I had geared myself up for an emotional encounter.

Pic description – 200-year-old house at Almora

Surprisingly, after entering the house, she showed remarkable maturity to control her emotions and to go on narrating her stories. It was then that a thought came to mind that the random videos I was shooting in the house had the potential to be made into a short documentary. Since the experience did not get reduced to a sob fest, it now had all the right ingredients—the thrill of an expedition, compelling stories, sufficient tangible material to document, and an unexpected comic relief—my son. For him, everything was so unfamiliar that he couldn’t stop talking, thereby providing comedic relief to what was otherwise an emotional homecoming. You can watch the short documentary in the link below –

(165) The Homecoming | Short Documentary | 200 Year Old House | Uttarakhand – YouTube

We spent over an hour at the place. It seemed like time had come to a standstill on the upper floors of the house. But the homecoming was complete. We got what we had come looking for.

Pic description – an old family album found in the house.

As the sun began to set, we bid farewell to the tenants and headed towards Kasar Devi—8 kms uphill from Almora. Our stay for the night was a slightly more commercial set-up compared to the rustic vibes of the cottage at Mukteshwar. Mohan’s Binsar Retreat at Kasar Devi is a well-known resort in the area that provides tourists with the necessary creature comforts. The resort offers semi-luxurious cottages that cater to all kinds of tourists. It also has a multi-cuisine restaurant. But the big selling point is that it offers a splendid view of the valley and the rising sun. My son was thrilled to find a small children’s room within the cottage. He wove his own stories around it and called it the ‘secret room’.

Pic description – sunrise at Mohan’s Binsar Retreat

The dinner buffet comprised mostly local dishes, and they tasted okay. Nothing to ride home about. The breakfast next morning, though, was a lot more satisfying, with food options catering to a more diverse crowd. Since this is a resort that is trying to appeal to urban tourists across India, I felt they could have given more thought to the menu. The staff, though, was courteous.

Pic description – cottage at Mohan’s Binsar Retreat

On the terrace at the entrance of the resort, we got a panoramic view of the Himalayas. We spent some time there before heading to our next destination—Bhimtal. En route, we were going to make a few stops. On our list were a few famous temples of the region. Two of which I am going to write about in this article:

Kasar Devi Temple – Considered among the 108 Shakti Peeths dedicated to the Goddess, the origins of this Devi temple date back to the 2nd century CE. However, it came to prominence after Swami Vivekananda visited this place in 1890. It is believed that within a cave near this temple; he had performed the most severe forms of spiritual practices, and had a life-changing spiritual experience. Thereafter, several seekers have visited Kasar Devi, and these celebrated personalities include—Rabindranath Tagore, Alfred Sorenson, DH Lawrence, Bob Dylan and Walter Evans-Wentz.

Pic description – Kasar Devi Temple

The temple complex is also famous because it is positioned on earth’s Van Allen Belt—a zone of energy charged particles that are captured and held around by the planet’s magnetosphere. The geo-magnetic field is on par with two similar well-known places—Machu Picchu and Stonehenge, as confirmed by NASA explorations.

It is a steep climb to the hilltop where the temple is located, but once there, you can feel the serenity and energy of the place. The ridge around the temple offers a splendid panoramic view of the valley, surrounding hills, and the Himalayas. One can spend hours here to cancel thoughts, and just be in the moment.

I am not a deeply religious person. But I do like visiting ancient temples, mosques, churches and other religious sites, for the simple reason that they are all part of the human story. Their existence confirms humanity’s continuous endeavor to find meaning in life. They are also often places of great beauty and art. And man, being the storytelling animal, needs such places to tell stories of faith, beliefs and spiritual experiences.

We bowed to the Goddess at Kasar Devi, and then spent a few minutes gazing at the imposing Himalayan peak (clearly visible from the temple) and soaked in the rejuvenating vibes.

Chitai Golu Devta Temple – Our third day at the hills was dedicated to visiting temples. Uttarakhand is called ‘Dev Bhoomi’ for a reason. Blessed with nature, it is the land of many gods and goddesses. Almost every hill station has a famous temple. Almora too has its share, one of which is the Chitai temple located 9 kms from Kasar Devi. It was a minor diversion from our route to Bhimtal, but we took it because my wife had fond memories of the temple. It was a place she frequented as a child.

Pic description – a shop selling bells outside Golu Devta Temple

Once there, you cannot miss the shops selling bells of all sizes. The practice is to inscribe your name on the bell, ask for a wish to be fulfilled by the God, and then tie the bell to a post or pillar, or wherever you find space within the temple. Some people even write down their wishes on a piece of paper and tie them along with the bell.

Pic description – inside Chitai Golu Devta Temple

The temple dedicated to Golu Devta (an incarnation of Lord Shiva) overwhelms you as soon as you enter it. It is one-of-a-kind; the sight of thousands of bells, from small to big, with letters tied around them, containing the prayers of strangers, evokes myriad emotions. We tied our bells in a tiny little space that we found within a sea of bells. It was a humbling experience.

Note: Beware of monkeys at the temple. They are a mischievous lot, so carry food items at your own risk.

…

In the next chapter of Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand, we make our way downhill to Bhimtal –

  • En route we stop at the famous ‘Kainchi Dham’ an ashram established by Neem Karoli Baba, the seer, whose teachings had a profound impact on the lives of famous people like Steve Jobs, Mark Zuckerberg and Julia Roberts.
  • Bhimtal and its adjacent Naukuchiatal, are towns with the most beautiful lakes. We go exploring what’s on offer at these lakes.
  • Our last night at the hills turned out to be a musical affair.

…

This and more next week in the next chapter of Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 3 – Bhimtal

 

About the author –

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also a passionate blogger, and on his website, www.whatsonsidsmind.com, you can find his travel diaries, food stories, book recommendations and movie reviews.

All rights reserved by whatsonsidsmind.com

 

by whatsonsidsmind

Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 1 – Mukteshwar

Pic description – View-Point near ‘Chauli ki Jali’ at Mukteshwar

Written by Siddhartha Krishnan | 7 Min Read

(Note: write-up contains links to help potential travelers with route maps and details of places, things etc.)

At the start of the year, it had dawned on me, that I haven’t written enough travelogues considering, that I have traveled somewhat in the last two years. I’d like to travel more this year; but this section titled ‘travel diaries’ is an attempt to revisit some of my travel stories from the past year and share them with you. In doing so if I am to help prospective travelers to these places, so be it.

To celebrate Christmas and New year last year, we as a family had made a journey up North to the ‘Land of the Gods’ or what the natives call ‘Dev Bhoomi’. Uttarakhand is a North Indian state that is crossed by the highest as well as the youngest mountain range in the world — ‘The Himalayas’. Divided into two regions—Kumaon and Garhwal, the state borders Tibet to the north, Nepal to the east, and Indian states Uttar Pradesh to the south and Himachal Pradesh to the west and north-west. My wife’s ancestral origins are in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. Hence, saying that we didn’t get a chance to visit this beautiful state in the 12 years of our marriage is a shame. But that’s how luck would have it for us.

Pic description – View of the valley at Mukteshwar

Our Himalayan sojourn was planned for 4 days (25th – 28th Dec 2022). Since my wife was the only one to have a body memory of living in cold climates as this, and that too a long time ago, we didn’t want to be too adventurous, at least with our on-road travel plans considering we had an eight-year-old who becomes nauseous 2 hours into any drive. So early morning and night drives was off our list.

There are innumerable hill stations in Uttarakhand, and hence covering all in just one or two visits is impossible. We had charted out our destinations, keeping in mind that the travel time between these destinations should not exceed 3 hrs. Moreover, due to the paucity of time, we had to be wise with our selections.

We zeroed in on 3 locations for the 3 nights that we were to spend in the hills, and they were—Mukteshwar, Kasar Devi and Bhimtal. We decided to hit the highest and coldest place on the list first and work our way down to more pleasant temperatures. In this blog, I will share my travel story at Mukteshwar.

Pic description – Pit stops En route Mukteshwar

We began our journey from Haldwani, which is in the foothills of the Himalayas and is the largest city in Kumaon region. The town is well-connected by road and rail to all major cities in North India. It was established in 1834 as a mart for hill people to visit during winter. To reach here, we had taken a 2.5-hour flight from Bangalore (our hometown) to Bareilly in Uttar Pradesh. We reached in the afternoon of 24th Dec. From Bareilly to Haldwani is around 100 kms which took another 2.5 hours by car. My wife’s aunt stays in the town, and she played an excellent host treating us to some delectable home-cooked food. On Christmas day, we left Haldwani after breakfast around 9 am, and planned to reach Mukteshwar by lunch time.

At 2171 metres (7500 feet) above sea level, Mukteshwar is one of the highest hill stations of Kumaon located in Nainital district of Uttarakhand. The drive to Mukteshwar from Haldwani is a pleasant one. The road (Bhatelia – Dhanachuli – Bhimtal Rd to Dhari – Bhatelia Rd/Dhari-Pokrad Rd/Link Rd) is largely good, but in case you are not used to driving in this terrain, I would suggest taking a cab the first time, like we did. Without stops it takes approximately 2.5 hrs to reach Mukteshwar from Haldwani. Since our check in time was at 1 pm, we decided to stop over for refreshments on the way. What we got was a local favorite—Potato and onion pakoras (fritters) with ‘bhang (hemp seeds) ki chutney’. Don’t worry the hemp seeds do not have psychoactive properties like the leaves. The ‘pakoras’ are also served with a tangy pomegranate chutney. A perfect snack for the weather.

We reached Mukteshwar town around 12 noon. One thing, that you need to be prepared for when visiting this part of Kumaon, is the absence of multi-cuisine restaurants en route to the hill stations. The restaurants here serve local cuisine which mostly comprises lentils indigenous to the area along with roti or rice. Other than that, you are bound to get your choice of parathas and … oh yes, Maggi! If you are lucky, you might see noodles or fried rice on the menu at these quaint roadside joints. Also, since these hill stations house sacred Hindu temples, so don’t expect too many non-veg options on the menu. At the most you might find one or two chicken dishes since the locals are mostly vegetarians. This was true of even the resorts of the area. I wasn’t complaining as long as I had that one chicken dish and eggs on the menu, to satiate my protein cravings.

Pic description – our home for the night – El Sueno by SaffronStays

We stopped over at a joint that gave us a splendid view of the valley. Post a light lunch we left for our abode for the day. El Sueno by Saffron Stays is a two-room cottage located within step farms where the locals grow apples, peaches, plums and apricots, in a village called Darima. The place is 13 kms downhill from Mukteshwar town which takes around 30 mins to reach. Since it is in the middle of nowhere, it is easy to miss and drive past it. My suggestion would be to contact the property manager for the exact location.

The cottage resembles houses typical of the area with a few creature comforts. Don’t come here looking for five-star facilities despite the slightly steep pricing which was accentuated by the holiday season. It is the experience that they are selling you. The rooms were unlike anything I had seen before. It had carpeted mud floors, wooden ceilings, stone walls and a fireplace. The owners have done the interiors tastefully, and I was happy to find a stack of books near the bed.

The temperature slips to sub-zero at night occasionally during the last week of December. And early mornings and evenings will see temperatures close to zero. So don’t bother with the portable heaters; the fireplace is the only refuge. We had no reason to complain because we had sought this adventurous, rustic and off-beat experience. Moreover, the verandah of our cottage provided a lovely view of the surrounding step farms, which I was told, looks spectacular during snow and during full bloom. I could imagine what it would look like.

Pic description – The room at El-Sueno, SaffronStays, Mukteshwar

After a quick break, we took a stroll down the hill to the farms. The staff at our cottage were local villagers. Our property manager’s uncle guided us through the step farms. He was generous enough to indulge us; tell us stories of the land and give us a peek into the local life by inviting us for a cup of tea to his house. It was fascinating to hear his stories. Of, how life had changed for him over the years, from the days when he used to walk from one hill to another to reach a school or market, as a child, to now seeing electricity, roads and other facilities come to his village. As a storyteller, I couldn’t have asked for more and the excitement in his eyes was unmissable. The one thing that I did realize was that these are proud people. They are proud of their heritage and culture and in no way consider themselves inferior to city folk—I liked that.

Pic description – bonding with the village folk. Right in pic is my son.

As the sun began to set, we felt the temperature plummeting. So, we made a dash to the cottage and ordered a few snacks. If you pay a visit here or to any farm stay in the area, please be mindful of the low night temperatures. It is, therefore, not right to expect the staff to be at your disposal all night. Be kind.

You might also not get an exhaustive food menu. What you are assured, though, is scrumptious homely food, clean air and a nice rustic vibe. My wife and I, spent the evening near the fireplace, sipping wine, telling each other stories of such fireplaces and bonfires from our past, while gazing at the waves of tiny shimmering lights that had draped the hills of the horizon. Our boy had quickly learnt how to keep the fireplace going. He lent a helping hand, and it kept him busy through the evening.

At Bangalore, I was doubtful when my wife had told me about the innumerable hill stations in Uttarakhand. I thought they were all part of a continuum. In the South we are not used to seeing so many hill stations within such close proximity. But I was wrong! Uttarakhand, I can now conclude is the ‘Goa of Hill Stations’. Every 30-40 kms a hill station crops up, out of nowhere, that has its own unique terrain, culture and history. It will take a number of visits to see all of it.

Pic description – that’s him at the fireplace

The next day after breakfast we left for Mukteshwar town to do some sight-seeing. On our list was the Mukteshwar Dham Temple, a short trek through a nature trail and a scenic spot called ‘Chauli ki Jali’. A 7-min drive from Mukteshwar town takes you to the Mukteshwar Dham temple area. It is within this area that all the other scenic spots are to be found. The whole sight-seeing exercise takes around 2 hours; that is if you are interested in exploring all of them. We took a guide to help us around for a fee of Rs 300. Let me give you a quick rundown of what to expect here –

Pic description – Mukteshwar Dham Temple. Pic credit – Times of India

  • Mukteshwar Dham Temple – This 350-year-old Shiva temple is located on top of a hill. Typical of the temples here, it is a small shrine, and a flight of stone stairs take you to the deity. Lord Shiva is believed to have slayed a demon here and granted him salvation (Mukti), hence the name Mukteshwar. Please expect a crowd at this place especially on weekends and holidays. And a waiting time of 30 mins is to be anticipated to see the deity because only one family is allowed within the sanctum at a time. Food stalls selling Malta juice (indigenous to the place), Kadhi Chawal, Rajma Chawal, Parathas and Maggi line up the area leading to stairs of the temple.
  • Nature trail–After a visit to the temple you can go on a trek through a nature trail around the temple. It doesn’t feel exactly like a forest, but more like a nature reserve of fruit orchards and coniferous trees. A serene place for nature lovers to take photographs.

Pic description – below ‘Chauli ki Jali’

  • Chauli Ki Jali–The name literally translates to a hole in the rock. According to local legend, if women wanting to have children climb this rock and put their heads through the hole, they are blessed with healthy offspring by the gods. I don’t how true that has turned out to be for the believers, but our guide had warned us not to climb the rock without assistance since accidents have been frequent lately.
  • Viewpoint–Next to ‘Chauli to Jali’ is a vantage point that provides a splendid view of the valley. There is a telescope on offer here to view a Himalayan peak for a measly sum of Rs 20.
  • Adventure Sports–If you are an adventure enthusiast, you can go for paragliding or zip lining options available near ‘Chauli Ki Jali’. Zip lining is allowed for kids as well, so my son (that’s him in the video) and I had tried it out. I found it safe enough to take the plunge despite a fear of heights. It costs Rs 600 per person.

We spent close to 2 hours at the Mukteshwar Dham temple area. At the end of it, we got what we had expected from the place—nature, adventure and a taste of something new, so we were happy!

…

In the next chapter of Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 2 – Kasar Devi

…

  • We take a 3-hr drive from Mukteshwar to Kasar Devi. A fascinating journey through a forest reserve offering spectacular views of the Himalayas.
  • En route we stop at a 200-year-old house which happens to be my wife’s maternal home. A place she hadn’t visited in 25 years.
  • The next day we visit Kasar Devi temple, a place believed to be endowed with a cosmic energy similar to Stonehenge and Machu Picchu.

This and more, coming up next week.

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also a passionate blogger and, on his website, www.whatsonsidsmind.com, you can find his travel diaries, food stories, book recommendations and movie reviews.

All rights reserved by whatsonsidsmind.com

by whatsonsidsmind

Aloo Posto with Sambar and Rice | Memoirs of a Malayali in Kolkata | FB Live @ Purono Kolkatar Golpo

Inside a Durga Puja Pandal in Kolkata

By: Siddhartha Krishnan . 10 Min Read

I have been away from Kolkata for 14 years. However, I have often wondered why the city is still a part of me and despite not being Bengali, why do I yearn for so many things that are Bengali? So when I received an invitation to do an FB live session on my experiences in Kolkata from the FB group—Purono Kolkatar Golpo (a group comprising of Kolkatans from across the world), I was thrilled, as it gave me a chance to introspect and relive some important moments of my life (YouTube video of the FB live session below. Please skip to 4:40 mins since the talk only starts then).

Most of my memories of the 22 years that I had spent in Kolkata are centered around one place—7A Gokhale Road. They say “Nostalgia is a dirty liar which insists things were better than they seemed.” I agree because I am often guilty of remembering my past with the kind of fondness which I did not exhibit while experiencing them. Picture this—I used to live in a small two room apartment in a 100-year-old building in Kolkata and so, with it came the challenges—space constraints, water supply issues, maintenance problems and every now and then, whenever it rained in Kolkata (in the 90s), the streets were flooded with knee-deep water.

A Pic of Gokhale Road from my last visit in 2018

Thus, I was often found cribbing about my circumstances. However, now when I go to Kolkata and engage in a bit of “Adda” (informal/idle talk) with old friends, I am guilty of saying “Shei Ki Din Chilo! Ekhon aar koi?” (those were the days). What’s more my younger brother’s apartment at Rajarhat, blessed with all creature comforts, does not feel like Kolkata anymore. That to me feels like Whitefield or Electronic city in Bangalore—mundane, boring and lacking “the cultural heritage”. How strange is that? Well, I guess this kind of hypocrisy is intrinsic to human nature.

Nandan Cinema close to Gokhale Road

Since, Gokhale Road is such an integral part of my story in Kolkata, let me help you locate and visualize the place, although I know most Kolkatans would know of it.

So Gokhale Road is a quiet little street located in the heart of Kolkata between Sambhunath Pandit Street and A.J.C Bose Road with the Gol Mandir at one end and the Calcutta Club at the other. On this road the other big landmarks are the Institute of Engineers and the Army’s Recruitment Centre. In the vicinity we have some of the city’s iconic cultural landmarks like the Victoria Memorial, Nandan Cinema, St.Paul’s Cathedral and Netaji Bhawan. These were all within half a kilometer from my house.

Next to the Gurudwara (on Sambhunath Pandit Street) we have two of the most famous eateries of Kolkata – Balwant Singh’s Dhaba (known for its Dhoodh Cola) and Sharma Tea House (renowned for its small kachoris, jalebis and the heritage tea). Just across the road are the much-sought after Gujarati snack shops serving their delectable dhoklas, khandvis and mathris. So this gave an excuse to my father to never leave Gokhale Road and say— “When most people living in the city are dying to stay in this locality, why should I leave this place?”

An early morning pic of Victoria Memorial

Our 100-year-old building— “Krishnapriya Mansions” is in the middle of Gokhale Road. But the name on its façade has all but withered away over the years. However, I vividly remember that in the mid-nineties during a hartal (strike) while we were playing cricket on the street, a friend of mine had hit the ball toward the façade and that’s when I first realized that the building actually had a name! We had become accustomed to calling it the building opposite the police barracks.

Flat no: 24 in the A block of this building is the place is where I stayed. It is the place my grandfather after migrating from Palakkad (Kerala) some 2 years before the independence of India called home. That was a time when many Malayalis like him migrated to Kolkata in search of a better life. Kolkata was the city of opportunity in those days. So my grandfather periodically brought people from his hometown who were looking for a good education and were ambitious and hard-working. He was their support until they managed to settle down in the city. Flat no: 24, therefore, is the place my father, uncles and aunt were brought up and so my brother and I are the second generation in the family to have grown up there. Hence, we owe a lot to this place.

Much of what we are today is a direct result of the culture we have been brought up in. This culture manifests itself in the clothes we wear, the food we eat, the movies we watch and the books we read. And, like everyone else my first point of reference in these matters were my parents. My father who has spent all his life in Kolkata and despite having close ties with his native place in Kerala is more Bengali than many Bengalis I know today. On the other end of the spectrum is my mother, who is what I would call a “Pukka Malayali”. She married very young and came to Kolkata when she was around 20 years old. Hence, much of my childhood I have been witness to the dynamics of their relationship and the clash of cultures. My father at the time of his marriage knew very little Malayalam while my mother knew no other language other than Malayalam. As a result, I picked up the Bengali way of doing things from my father while clinging onto my roots in Kerala due to my mother. However, over the years I have seen my mother evolve and become more and more comfortable with the Bengali culture.

Authentic Bengali lunch at Kewpie’s Elgin Road

The manifestation of this clash was seen in all the things that we indulged in. Let me give you a few examples. The food on our plate was clearly an amalgamation of these cultures. It was not odd to find an “Aloo Posto” or “Aloo Chochodi” (typical veg dishes of Bengal) being served alongside “Sambar and Rice” (the quintessential South-Indian fare). Or for that matter a “Rui Macher Jhol” (much-loved fish curry of Bengal) served with a “Beans Thoran” (a humble beans dish eaten in South India). And, while packing a plate of kachoris from Sharma Tea House we would be mindful to pack a plate of “Vada” and Sambar from the Tamilian street food vendor next to the iconic eatery.

The iconic eatery Sharma Tea House

Such examples could also be found in the movies we watched. While I got a steady dose of the satirical Malayalam films of the 80s and 90s on Asianet, I did also get a generous dose of the movies of Ray. By the way closely observing my father explaining the subtle nuances of Ray’s movies while drawing references to English literature and parallels to Malayalam films are some of my fondest memories from childhood. But these discussions were limited to his friends while I remained a silent observer. However, I can safely say today that these experiences have left an indelible mark on my artistic leanings.

One more significant recollection from childhood is that of the “Shaka and Pola”. These beautiful coral and shell bangles from Bengal are now part of my family culture. Ever since my mother has been wearing them, all the women in our family have also been wearing them. They have found a way into the homes of people who have nothing to do with Bengal. This proves how subliminal culture can be.

How all of this has played out with me, shows in my habits. Although I have been away from Kolkata for so long, I do crave for my Kolkata Biriyani, Kathi Rolls, Macher Jhol and Bhoger Kichudi every now and then. But I do have a similar yearning for the quintessential Malayali dishes like Puttu, Aapam, Pazham Poori and Malabar fish curries. Twice a month I look forward to watching a Ray movie on YouTube while the same is true for a Sathyan Anthikad or Padmarajan film as well. And, “adda” with Bengali friends over the weekends is something I wait for eagerly. A call to their wives to prepare a Bengali dish specifically for me before these meetings is something I am not ashamed to admit. However, Bangalore being such a cosmopolitan city getting these things is not a difficult task.

The famous kachoris of Sharma Tea House

But how can any nostalgic journey of Kolkata be complete without a mention of Durga Puja? Those four days of the Puja every year are my favorite memories of growing up in Kolkata. My father, a chartered accountant by profession and usually a very busy man would get these four days off (Saptami, Ashtami, Navami and Dashami). But on these days he would exude a child-like exuberance which was otherwise absent in him. His office car would be at our disposal for the first half of these days. A cut out from the Telegraph newspaper charting out the route of all the famous pandals across Kolkata would be at our disposal. Each day was dedicated to a certain part of the city and we would start early in the morning around 7 a.m. Day 1 would usually be North Kolkata, starting either at Bagbazar or Kumartuli and driving all the way back to Mohammad Ali Park, thereby pandal hopping all the iconic North Kolkata pandals. This would invariably mean that lunch would be at Park Street, hence, either Chinese delicacies at “Peiping” or Biriyani at “Shiraz”.

Day 2 would be South Kolkata starting at “Ekdalia Evergreen” and ending at “Maddox Square” closer home. This would mean that a Punjabi lunch was on offer at the “Ballygunge Dhaba”. The remaining days were left to explore the award winning pandals of yester years and thus we would venture to places like Bosepukur and Lebutala. The idea was always to outdo our performance of the previous year. If we had visited 100 pandals the previous year, this year the count has to be 101! The crowded evenings on these days were dedicated to pandals in our vicinity and “adda” with friends outside “Gokhale Sporting Club Pujo”, since my father was not much of a crowd person.

Ekdalia Evergreen Durga Puja Pandal of 2012

But perhaps the most resounding memory of Durga Puja is of the day of Dashami when the Goddess bid adieu to us mortals. The memory is of the vermillion game or what the Bengalis call “Sindoor Khela”. On this day married women would throw vermillion on each other and the picture of my mother letting go of all her inhibitions and smothering vermillion on the faces of the Bengali women of our locality with fervor is still fresh in my mind. In return for her favors she would be covered in red herself. But by doing so, for that moment, she had managed to merge with the crowd or should I say merge with that culture?

All the above recollections of Kolkata, however, would not be complete without a mention of my school friends at St. Xavier’s Collegiate School and my “adda buddies” of Bhowanipore and Gokhale Road. The “Shikanji” after a grueling cricket match at the Calcutta Maidan, the ice-candy in the afternoon heat at school and breakfast at “Arun Da’s Canteen” at St. Xavier’s College would not have tasted so good without them. So a big heartfelt thank you to them for making these experiences so memorable and being part of my story in the “City of Joy”.

Gol Mandir at Gokhale Road

I’d like to end by saying that my story may be something new for Bengalis but I am sure that it will strike a chord with so many Malayalis I know who had once or still call the city their home. Hence, I am thankful to the FaceBook group – Purono Kolkatar Golpo for having given me this opportunity to take the trip down memory lane with their FB live and for giving me the chance to explain why Kolkata is still a part of me.

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of “Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories“. He is also an enthusiastic blogger and on his website www.whatsonsidsmind.com, he regularly puts out his essays, articles, travelogues and film reviews.

All rights reserved by http://www.whatsonsidsmind.com

by whatsonsidsmind

The Goa Diary – Chapter 3 – The Tiny Tales

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At Baga Beach, North Goa

We go on long vacations to unwind, explore, bond and rejuvenate – everyone has a different and unique reason. But one thing, which we share in common, is that, we come back with stories to tell. Apart from some photographs and souvenirs, these memories are all that remain to share with others over a cup of coffee or a glass of wine.

In this last chapter of the Goa Diary, I am going to share some of my stories. I thought that this travelogue would be incomplete, without sharing these experiences because they capture the essence of what this vacation meant to me and my family. I am going to call this chapter, “The Tiny Tales”.

So, let’s get started …

  1. Deception
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A nice place to sit – Baga Beach

This was the first time my four-year-old was going on such a long road trip (approx. 1600 kms over the course of 9 days). We knew that being a hyperactive child, he was going to get bored on several occasions. Hence, we had a big checklist for him. Toys, story books, YouTube videos, snacks, chocolates etc. We had it all covered. Yet, my wife and I, were apprehensive.

The first leg of this journey was from Bangalore to Belgaum (510 kms, which meant 12 hours on the road with breaks). This was going to be a tall ask for my son, given his nature. We started early at 6 am and crossed the first toll by 7 am. I was relieved and excited to have crossed the toll, and the driver within me was eager to hit the highway.

My son, who was quiet all this while, asked, “Papa, have we reached Goa?”.

I looked at my wife bewildered because she and I had spent enough time explaining to him, prior to undertaking this journey, that this would be a long one. Hence, he would have to be, patient and well-mannered. He had agreed. Thus, this question came as a surprise, and that too so early.

We reiterated what we had told him at home. He nodded in agreement.

An hour afterwards, I got excited upon seeing a beautiful landscape on my right. My son asked again, “Papa, have we reached Goa?”.

I was puzzled. This kept on happening repeatedly, despite continuous reminders.

But there was a catch.

I realized, that he was asking the question every time I was getting excited and that’s when I finally managed to connect the dots. He was equating my excitement to us reaching Goa. The beautiful scenery, alluring roads and exotic locales – were all inconsequential to him. He just wanted to reach the intended destination.

He couldn’t understand, why his father would get excited at anything other than reaching Goa. He was wondering – what the fuss was all about?

I realized, that I was the one who was deceiving him!

  1. This is Goa!
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Advay’s perception of Goa

We reached Goa in the afternoon and checked into Tranquility Cottage Resort which was 1.5 kms from Baga beach the biggest tourist hotspot in North Goa. But thankfully, the chaos and euphoria, unfolding just a mile away, did not manage to trickle into our quaint little wooden cottage. It was just what we wanted – proximity to the famous beaches, yet solitude when we called it a day.

Upon entering the cottage, my son seemed very excited and explored every nook and corner of it. He was happy that there was a swimming pool just outside our room. He loves the water and is always ready for a swim. His frenzied behaviour continued, until food went into his belly.

Post lunch, we got into the bed for a quick nap and my wife asked, “Advay, did you like the cottage?”.

“Yes”, replied my son.

“What did you like about this cottage?”, asked my wife.

“It’s like home”, he replied. His answer surprised us.

“But we live in an apartment and not a cottage like this”, said my wife.

“Yes, but we are going to stay here for the next few days. Isn’t it? So, this is like our home”, he replied.

We got the point. There was silence.

Then my son asked curiously, “But where is Goa?”.

We were puzzled.

“This is Goa. All of this. We are in Goa!”, I assured.

“No this is not Goa. This is home”, he replied, visibly annoyed.

“Where is Goa then?”, I asked, bemused.

“It’s at the beach. Where is the beach?”, he asked, fuming.

I smiled and replied, “Don’t worry, we will go to the beach in the evening”.

And, we did at 5 pm, after a siesta for few hours.

The sun was beginning to set. The wind had become cooler. There was also a light drizzle for just a bit. When he finally saw the sea, my son’s euphoria knew no bounds. He pulled us both and dragged us towards the waves.

When the waves hit our feet, he shouted ecstatically, “This is Goa!”, pointing his tiny finger towards the sea.

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At Cavelossim beach, South Goa.

 

  1. Family time

My wife and I had been desperately yearning for a long holiday for some time. Our holidays would never match because we worked across different time zones and in different industries. Hence, we would usually restrict ourselves to doing short trips.

But this time everything fell in place and a 9-day long adventure was on offer.

“It’s family time!”, my son would say, every time he wanted us both next to him. We got plenty of that without any hindrance, and we made the most of it. When I look back now, ironically, it’s the little things that we did which have been the most memorable. Like the early morning conversations over coffee, a dip in the pool at noon, building sandcastles, collecting seashells or just eating together. Simple things, but they were undoubtedly the most joyful moments of the trip.

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Conversation over a hot cup of coffee – Tranquility Cottage Resort, North Goa.

Our lives are so mechanical that we are physically present for each other, but mentally never there. Thus, reinforcing the need to go on holidays like these. It helps immensely to declutter the mind and let positive thoughts pervade it. Thereby, reinvigorating us to make new beginnings.

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Infinity pool at MayFair Hideaway Spa Resort, South Goa

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Out for lunch in South Goa

I am usually the one guilty of chalking out daily itineraries when on holidays. Once done, I can be a bit pushy when it comes to sticking to a plan.

This time, however, my wife repeatedly reminded me, “We have time!”. I smiled in agreement whenever she said that.

  1. Into the wilderness

The mountains call out to some and the sea calls out to others. My wife and son are fond of the sea while I am fond of the hills. It’s very rare that on a holiday you get a taste of both and more. Well, a road trip to Goa gives you a taste of everything – hills, jungles, waterfalls, rivers and beaches.

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On the way to North Goa – Chorla Ghat road.

I am so happy that I got the opportunity to go on such amazing road trips during this vacation which truly rejuvenated me. These were long trips, but never did I feel anxious or stressed because what I got in return for the labour was highly satisfying. Some of the glimpses of nature that I got to see during this journey were simply spell binding.

I’ve always felt that entering the wilderness is like entering a temple. Everything seems to just blank out – my thoughts, doubts, fear and me. When within the arms of nature I am always at peace with myself. It’s as if a dormant corner of my mind has suddenly become active and its radiance has engulfed my body, mind and soul.

  1. The Sun, Sand and Sandpit
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Building sandcastles.

There is something about the sea that is so alluring. The waves kiss your feet and leave, only to come back again. Seducing you to stay a bit longer. The sea has the uncanny ability to bring out the child in you as well as the philosopher.

My four-year-old had enjoyed himself thoroughly in all the six beaches we had visited. The joy and ecstasy on his face whenever he saw the sea, was priceless. He would yell in excitement when the waves touched his little feet.

But once he was done playing with the waves, he would pick up his beach set to build a sandcastle. This would happen every time we went to a beach.

“Advay, why do you build sandcastles every time you are on a beach?”, asked my wife curiously.

“Mumma, the beach is a giant sandpit. It’s much bigger than the one at our apartment. I can build millions of sandpits here!”, he replied.

Well, that’s the innocence of a child. I wish, I could borrow some of his simplicity and zest for life.

If I am destined to, I will go on many such wonderful vacations in the future. But this trip to Goa will always remain special for me.

I’d like to end, by thanking all my readers and fellow bloggers, who have supported me immensely, by reading chapter 1 and 2 and sharing their thoughts on it. I had a great time sharing my experiences, through this travelogue. Thank you very much for your support.

Photo credits:

Kavita Joshi Krishnan

Siddhartha Krishnan

 

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also an enthusiastic blogger and on his website www.whatsonsidsmind.com, he regularly puts out his essays, articles, travelogues and film reviews.

All rights reserved by http://www.whatsonsidsmind.com

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by whatsonsidsmind

The Goa Diary – Chapter 2 – The Places

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Pic: Baga Beach, North Goa

There is a lot that you can do in Goa. It doesn’t matter, whether you are a party animal or adventure seeker, a vagabond or history-geek, a trekker or photographer, a brooder or solitude craver, be rest assured, that you will find a place to your liking. There is something for everyone here.

But don’t make the mistake of carrying, an unrealistically long bucket list, because you won’t be able to cover everything in a single visit. There is always a next time and Goa is the kind of place you want to keep coming back to. Trust me.

In Chapter 2 of “The Goa Diary”, I will be covering some of the places, I had visited in North and South Goa, which might be of interest to you

I have provided links (easily identifiable by their font colour) in this article, which will provide you further information about these places, in case you want to delve a bit deeper.

So, let’s get started.

The Beaches:

Goa is home to more than 50 beaches (click link to get the list). The exact number is not very clear hence, I will stick to an approximate number. These beaches are divided among the 2 districts of Goa:

The North Goa Beaches – which are more crowded

The South Goa Beaches – which are mostly secluded

Depending on your preferences, you can pick and choose, the ones you want to visit. We had decided to spend the first four days in North Goa and the remaining three days in South Goa. This gave us enough time to explore some of the most famous beaches of the place.

In North Goa, the beaches we visited were Baga, Calangute, Candolim and Anjuna.

Baga – I am sure everyone has heard of this beach. It is perhaps the most famous of all the beaches in North Goa. Also, the most crowded and commercialized. There are many restaurants on the beach, where you can grab a drink and watch the sunset. The famous Tito’s nightclub and Britto’s bar and restaurant, are in close proximity to Baga. You will find people of all age groups on this beach. It’s a big party which happens every evening here. Loud music, great food, drinks, ambience – you have it all. If you are a nocturnal party animal, then this is the place to come to.

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Pic: Water sports at Baga beach

This beach is also famous for its water sports, which includes parasailing, banana rides and dolphin cruises. There are number of small shops in the tiny lanes leading to the beach, from where you could grab your souvenirs. We had made a couple of visits to this beach, since we were staying in a resort just a mile away.

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Pic: Sunset at Baga Beach

Due to the overcrowding though, the beach tends to become dirty. The other problem, I felt is the parking during evenings. Due to the massive crowds, parking could be a problem close to the beach, although you do get a paid parking service here. If you are staying close by, I would suggest, that you walk, to get here.

If you didn’t drive to Goa, like I had, and have rented a two-wheeler, then you wouldn’t be hassled much. By the way for bachelors and couples, renting a two-wheeler is the best option to travel around Goa.

Calangute – We visited Calangute beach early in the morning on the second day in Goa. This beach is the largest in North Goa and is generally crowded during the season time (Oct-April). It offers water sports activities. There is paid parking available, in the lanes leading to the beach and these lanes are slightly wider than those in Baga.

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Pic: At Calangute beach – waiting for the waves.

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Pic: At Calangute – ready to build a sandcastle.

Candolim – I found this beach to be the best in North Goa. It’s perhaps the most organized, with wide roads leading to the beach and provides proper parking facilities, inside a gated space. If you are planning to get yourself drenched, then this is a good beach to come to. I was told by a tattoo artist, who made a temporary Spiderman tattoo on my son’s arm, that the waves here are ideal for surfing.

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Pic: Euphoria at one end in Candolim

There are several nice restaurants and shops near Candolim. The beach has also hosted a number of editions of the world famous Sunburn Music Festival.

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Pic: Calmness at the other end in Candolim

The above beaches are part of a contiguous stretch, which starts from Sinquerim (a less crowded beach in North Goa, which I didn’t visit) and ends at Baga.

Anjuna – We visited Anjuna beach at night. It is located around five kilometres from Baga and is famous for its trance parties. It hosts a flea market, every Wednesday and Saturday, where you can purchase a range of products. We had come here for dinner, to one of the shacks, on the beach. I hadn’t experienced a candle-light dinner, on a beach, with the waves kissing my feet. So, this experience was on my bucket list. Since, Anjuna was expected to be less crowded than Baga, I chose Anjuna for the experience. It made more sense for me with a four-year-old around.

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Pic: Watching the waves at night is so magical.

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Pic: Chilling by the sea after a hearty meal.

3.5 kms from Anjuna beach is Chapora Fort. It is the place, where a famous scene in the Hindi movie “Dil Chahta Hain” was shot. I had been to Chapora fort, during a previous visit to Goa, hence I gave it a miss, this time around.

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Pic: the famous scene from the movie “Dil Chahta hain” at Chapora fort.

Pic credit: cocktailzindagi.com

You could also visit Vagator beach, which is another famous beach in North Goa. It is 3.5 kms from Anjuna beach. There are a lot of Western backpackers who come to Vagator and it is known for its rave culture.

The South Goa beaches in comparison to North Goa, offer seclusion and serenity. Something, that we were desperately craving for, after the frenzy of North Goa. Yes, we enjoyed the partying and merry making, but now we wanted some peace. The South Goa beaches gave us just that. Since, the beaches here are less crowded, they are much cleaner. If you are travelling with family and small kids, these beaches would be more suited to your needs.

We spent three days in South Goa and stayed in Mayfair Hideaway Spa Resort located in Betul Salcete, which is an isolated corner of South Goa. The closest beaches from our resort, were Cavelossim and Mobor and these were the beaches, we visited in this part of town.

Cavelossim – This beach is known for its white sands and contrasting black lava rocks. It is a beautiful, peaceful and calm beach. You can spend hours here without being disturbed by anyone. All you need is a nice mat and shade. If you are interested in meditation or yoga, overlooking the sea, then this is the beach to come to.

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Pic: Entry to Cavelossim beach

My wife, son and I spent an hour on this beach, collecting seashells, which are in plenty, before we decided to get drenched in the sparkling white waters. If you are interested, you could go for dolphin sighting trips from this beach.

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Pic: Cavelossim – You and I, on this beautiful day!

The landscapes around this beach are also quite stunning. It is clean, green and surrounded by paddy fields. Luxury hotel brands like Radisson and Leela have set up their Goa hotels, near Cavelossim. There are many good restaurants close to the beach which play great music and serve even better food. The one that I would suggest everyone to try, is Robin’s Ark.

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Pic: the white sands and sparkling waters of Cavelossim

Mobor – Mobor beach is just an extension of Cavelossim and is located around 3.5 kms from Cavelossim. It is a 15-minute stroll from Cavelossim to Mobor, if you don’t mind walking. We went to Mobor in the afternoon and found it quite secluded and calm. There are number of shacks here, which serve tasty food.

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Pic: Mobor beach in the afternoon

The more famous beaches in South Goa, which we chose not to visit, are Colva, Benaulim and Varca. Colva which is the most famous of the South Goa beaches is located at around 15 kms from Cavelossim. These beaches are more crowded in comparison to Cavelossim and Mobor. On the southern end of the coastline, you have Palolem and Polem beaches, which are also quite serene and peaceful. In my next visit, I would like to explore these beaches.

One beach, which we did see, but did not visit, was Betul beach. The reason – Our resort which was located at the intersection of the Sal river and the Arabian Sea, provided a stunning view of this meeting point and a portion of the Betul beach, from its infinity pool. This view was simply stunning, especially during sunset and daybreak.

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Pic: Daybreak at Mayfair resort

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Pic: Another view of the meeting point of the Sal river and Arabian Sea.

Churches and Forts:

If you a history geek and have a fascination for architecture, then you should spend a day in Panjim (also called Panaji). The Portuguese influence on Goa, especially on its architecture, is clearly visible in this part of the town. A shining example of this, are the churches of Panjim, the most famous of these are:

Basilica of Bom Jesus – This church was built in 1605 AD. I had a special interest in seeing the place, because it houses the mortal remains of Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of my school – St. Xavier’s Collegiate School, Kolkata. His mummified body is kept inside a casket which tourists can see from afar. But the next public viewing of his body will be in 2024. Public viewing happens every ten years and gains a lot of attention worldwide because the saint is believed to have had miraculous healing powers. The church is a UNESCO world heritage site and is a classic example of Baroque and Portuguese colonial architecture.

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Pic: Basilica of Bom Jesus

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Pic: the casket which holds the mummified body of St. Francis Xavier.

Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church – The beautiful white fascade of this church, will be familiar to some, because many Bollywood movie scenes have been shot here. It is once again, a classic example of the Portuguese Baroque style architecture. It was first built in 1541 as a chapel and then later replaced with a much larger church in the 1600’s, as part of Portuguese Goa’s religious expansion.

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Pic: Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Church.

The streets of Panjim are worth taking a stroll around because of its immaculate architecture, restaurants and beautiful roads. However, when visiting these places, be careful not to park your vehicle in no parking zones. You might end up paying heavy fines and wasting time on it. There are designated parking zones and I would suggest investing your time in finding those.

Panjim is also famous for its casinos and cruises which you could try. These are near the Panjim bridge on the river Mandovi. You could check out packages in Casino Pride Goa, if you are interested. It offers you a floating casino on the river.

Fort Aguada – This fort was constructed by the Portuguese in 1612, to guard against the Dutch and Marathas. It is in North Goa, 11 kms from Baga beach, located on a hilltop, near the Sinquerim beach, overlooking the Arabian Sea. The view of the Arabian Sea from this vantage point, is simply stunning. There is a lighthouse within the Fort and a freshwater spring which provides the water supply. The fort got its name from this, since Aguada means water.

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Pic: the lighthouse at Fort Aguada

The place is generally crowded during season time, and you might have to spend 10 minutes in a que to get into the fort. But it is worth it. There are shops selling refreshments outside the gates of the fort and they come in handy after a stint under the sun. A nice glass of lemon soda is just what you will need to reinvigorate yourself.

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Pic: view of the Arabian Sea from Fort Aguada.

The Food:

The food in Goa, in general, is of very good quality. Especially, the sea food. There are some fabulous dining options available in Goa, serving all kinds of cuisines – local, domestic and international. You wouldn’t need my help in figuring out where you should eat. Google will do a great job of it. Moreover, both Zomato and Swiggy, does food delivery in Goa, so that’s an added advantage, in case you are feeling too lazy to head out from your hotel or resort.

Of the restaurants that we tried; I’d like to pick one which clearly stood out for me and is not that well known:

The Station Goa

If you are driving from North to South Goa, then just after you cross Panjim, in a place called Nuvem, there is this little gem of a restaurant called – The Station.

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Pic: The Station, Goa – An old Portuguese villa converted into a restaurant.

I discovered this place by accident, since we didn’t have any specific place in mind for lunch. Hence, we just stopped at our convenience. But then, we were in for a pleasant surprise. This is a 100+ year-old Portuguese villa, that has been converted to a restaurant, which has been functional for the last 3 years. The décor is quite unique. The restaurant is spacious yet cosy and very well lit.

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Pic: The inner decor and lighting

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Pic: restaurant area – The Station Goa.

The menu is extensive, and includes American, Mexican, Italian and Goan cuisines. So, burgers, pastas and lasagnes are all on the menu. But I was looking for something simple and local. So, out came a Goan fish Thali and boy, was it good!

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Pic: Authentic Goan Fish Thali.

I really loved this place – the ambience, service and food, all were good. The prices were also reasonable, costing me just Rs 280 for a Fish Thali and a Veg Thali. If you happen to pass by Majorda or Nuvem, do stop here for lunch or dinner.

Other honourable mentions are:

Fat Fish – on the Calangute-Arpora road (North Goa) – famous for its seafood.

Robin’s Ark – near Cavelossim beach (South Goa) – highly rated.

Nautica (Mayfair Hideaway Spa resort) – Betul (South Goa) – the buffets are elaborate and food is delicious.

I’d like to sum up this section of the chapter by saying that, if you are in Goa, you must try the local cuisine. Both vegetarians and non-vegetarians have options to choose from. My wife was very happy with the Veg Xacuti that she tried, although she is generally not very adventurous with food. I believe to understand the people of a certain place, you must try out their food, because eating together is one of the great joys of life. Goa did not disappoint us one bit in this regard. I am in love with Goan cuisine and will try making some of them at home.

I would like to end this chapter by repeating what I had said in the beginning, that there is a lot to do in Goa. You will be left with a few things, that you might have wanted to do, but couldn’t. Hence, a visit to the Dudhsagar falls, an island visit, a cruise on the Mandovi river, scuba-diving and parasailing are pending. But then, I didn’t come here hoping to tick all the boxes. There is always a next time.

In the final chapter of “The Goa Diary”, I will be sharing some of my personal experiences and stories. I hope you will find that interesting. Do look out for that piece. It will be published soon.

Thanks for reading.

Photo credits:

Kavita Joshi Krishnan

Siddhartha Krishnan

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by whatsonsidsmind

The Goa Diary – Chapter 1 – The Road Trip

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Of the many experiences, during this long vacation, the road trips undoubtedly stood out, as one of the key takeaways. If someone were to ask me, if I would like to do this again? My answer would be a definite, “Yes”. If you love the sight of tarmac, stretching out into the horizon, surrounded by natural wonders, then this chapter of The Goa Diary, is just for you.

So, let’s get started.

Out of the road trips that we had done during this vacation, including the ones within Goa, I have picked the 3 trips listed below, to share my experiences with you, because they were the most significant and memorable:

  • Bengaluru – Belgaum
  • Belgaum – North Goa
  • South Goa – Shivamogga

Note: there are multiple links in this article, which are easily identifiable by the font color. These include route maps, places, hotels etc and if you are interested to read further on any specific item, please do click those links and it will take you to the appropriate page.

Bangalore – Belgaum

There are several routes that you can take to reach North Goa from Bengaluru and these routes could take anywhere between 12-14 hours, depending on the route you take and the time you start. Since, I had a 4-year-old backpacking with me, there were a few things which I did not want to do:

  • Drive at night post 7 pm
  • Drive more than 10 hours in a day
  • Drive through isolated places in the evening

Considering the above, I felt that a night halt at Belgaum on the way to Goa would be the safest bet. My intent was to reach Belgaum as quickly as possible and save all the energy for the adventures ahead.

There are 3 routes that Google shows you to reach Belgaum from Bengaluru. The fastest and shortest route is the NH44/NH75 and NH48 route (click link for the route map).

Distance – 510 kms

Time – 9.5 hours (without breaks)

The other routes are considerably longer and will take a further 1.5 hours. There are multiple tolls on this route, but you would be predominantly driving on 4 and 6 lane roads. Also, the well-known towns of Tumkur, Davanagere and Hubli are on the way, thus making this route a viable option, when travelling with family.

We started at 6:00 am on Saturday, October 5th. Since, our vacation had coincided with the Puja holidays; a mad rush was expected at the tolls. Despite staying close to the NH, by the time we cleared the toll and headed out of the city, it was 7 am.

One thing, that you will immediately notice on this route, is the absence of decent breakfast joints. There are 2 Kamat Upachar restaurants on the way though. One is closer home near Tumkur, 1.5 hours from Bengaluru (when you aren’t that hungry) and the other at Ranebennur, 5.5 hours from Bengaluru (when you are very hungry). Unfortunately, there aren’t any good options available in between. There are Southern and Rajasthani style Dhabas, which only open post 12 noon. Hence, the best thing to do is to carry your own supplies for breakfast.

Although, this route to Belgaum is the fastest, after the first 100 odd kms, the highway is dug up at many places, owing to flyover constructions. This means diversions every 4 to 5 kms. It will take some time for this work to be completed and tourists should be mindful of this, when taking this route. It is still the fastest route, although you might get a backache at the end of the day, after having spent hours on service roads, which aren’t in great condition. I am sure, once the work is finished, this route would save a lot of travel time.

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Pic: After lunch at Apoorva resort

Unlike breakfast, lunch is not a problem, since there are a lot of options available close to Davanagere. The place that we stopped for lunch was Apoorva resort, which is on the highway. The restaurant of this resort is spacious with an extensive menu. Also, there is enough outdoor space for kids to run around. The prices are on the higher side though and a plate of chicken biriyani, might cost you upwards of Rs 300.

In terms of nature and scenic beauty, there is not much to talk about on this route except for the windmills that we saw on NH48. This wasn’t really a put off for us because we just wanted to reach Belgaum, as quickly as possible. Nature and adventure were saved for later.

Since, we had taken multiple breaks on the way, we reached Belgaum around 7 pm. Belgaum has a few good hotels which you could try, but the one that we had chosen was Native by Chancery. This hotel has clean rooms and good service. It is a good option for those heading to Goa, because it is located on the route to Goa. The complimentary breakfast next morning is nice with an elaborate spread.

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Pic: Sunset on the highway

Belgaum to North Goa via Chorla Ghat

All routes to North Goa from Belgaum, take approximately the same time, so you could take any route based on your priority, but we decided to take the Chorla Ghat route.

Distance – 120 kms

Time – 3.5 hours (without breaks)

Route – Belgaum-Jamboti-Kankumbi-Chorla-North Goa (click link for the route map)

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Pic: Into the wilderness

The Chorla Ghat is a part of the Western Ghats or the Sahyadri mountain range at an elevation of 800 metres. This is a two-lane forest route and it offers you some spectacular scenic views. The road though, was a bit scratchy at places due to the rains. So, do not make the mistake of over speeding. Be wary of the many blind spots, heavy vehicles and potholes on this route.

However, the adventure more than compensated for the slight discomfort caused. My advice would be to drive at a leisurely pace and soak in all the good energy.

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Pic: View of the valley from one of vantage points on this route

There are many vantage points on this route from where you could get some great shots of the valley. Do have a heavy breakfast before taking this route, since there aren’t many restaurants on the way, until you cross the Goa border. We managed to reach our resort, near Baga Beach in North Goa, after a leisurely 4-hour drive, well before lunch time.

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Pic: The meandering roads of this route

South Goa – Shivamogga

Distance – 310 kms

Time – 6.5 – 7 hrs (without breaks) depending on what time you start.

The route from South Goa to Shivamogga via NH66 and NH69 (click the link for the route map) is a straight one. But it meanders through beaches, rivers, jungles and passes by one of the most famous waterfalls in the country. What else could you ask for? This drive was undoubtedly one of the highlights of our vacation.

We were put up in Mayfair Hideaway Spa resort in South Goa, which is 10 kms from Cavelossim beach and we left the resort, post breakfast at around 9:30 am. The idea was to get to Shivamogga before sunset.

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Pic: On the road leading us out of Goa.

You will exit Goa via Palolem and pass by the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary before you cross over to the Karnataka side and into Karwar Port. In case you are hungry, then a short diversion towards Palolem Beach or into Karwar town would be a good option to take.

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Pic: Entrance to the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Goa

For a brief stretch after Karwar, there is deep excavation work happening through the hills to build a six-lane highway, but don’t worry you won’t be hassled much, since the roads are quite wide in this area.

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Pic: Boats lined up on the coast at Karwar

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Pic: View of the Karwar beach from the Highway

Then, the Ghat section starts and the roads slowly become desolate. As you keep going ahead on this route, the chirping of birds and screeching of the lion-tailed macaque become prominent. The road keeps meandering through multiple hair pin bends. It’s a challenging yet adventurous drive.

This two-lane road is in excellent condition, and the road engineers have put in a lot of thought to eliminate blind spots, primarily by splitting the road at corners into one-way zones at multiple places, thus minimizing the risk of head on collisions. You might be seduced to test your driving skills but try to curb your instincts and stick to the speed limits, prescribed on the sign boards, despite the beautiful tarmac and great sightlines.

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Pic: Beautiful tarmac

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Pic: The luring roads. Challenging yet adventurous.

This route is not for those who are in a hurry to reach their destination. It is for nature lovers. Whether you like it or not, you will be forced to stop multiple times, during the journey and marvel at the scenery, as well as take photographs.

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Pic: A spellbinding view from one of the vantage points.

Around 100 kms before you reach Shivamogga, is the magnificent Jog Falls. One of the highest waterfalls in the country with a drop measured at 829 feet. It has been created by the watercourse of the Sharavati river. A big arch on the right of the highway, welcomes you to the Jog Falls. It’s a very small diversion to the falls and you should take it.

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Pic: The Magnificent Jog Falls

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Pic: Another view of the Jog Falls

There is ample parking space available here and it is just a 2-minute walk from the parking lot to the spot from where you can clearly see the waterfall. There are several shops at the parking space, from where you can buy refreshments. This diversion won’t cost you more than 30 minutes and its worth your time and effort.

The Ghat section continues after you cross the Jog Falls until you start making the descent to the small town of Sagar, where there are restaurants which are famous for its Veg Thalis, in case you reach this place at lunch time. From here, Shivamogga is around 70 kms and it takes around 1.5 hours to reach your destination.

We reached Shivamogga by 6:30 pm in the evening, just as the sun was setting in the background.

Apart from the above road trips the others we had done were:

  • North Goa to South Goa
  • Shivamogga – Bengaluru

I will be briefly touching upon these in the subsequent chapters of the Goa Diary.

Next up:

In Chapter 2 of the Goa Diary – I will be telling you about the places we visited in North and South Goa. So, do look out for that piece. It will be published soon.

Thanks for reading.

Photo credits:

Kavita Joshi Krishnan

Siddhartha Krishnan

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by whatsonsidsmind

Nelliyampathy. An Escapist’s Paradise.

By Siddhartha Krishnan . 5 Min Read

(Note: article contains links to hotels, tourist places etc which will direct you to relevant sites on the internet)

Nestled, within a quiet little-known corner of God’s own country, in the district of Palakkad is a place called Nelliyampathy. You could call it a hill station. But I rather not. For me, Nelliyampathy is a place like no other. It has the weather of a hill station but not the fancy hotels, impatient crowds, street hawkers and amusement parks. However, this place offers you something that the famous hill stations in the country cannot provide you anymore. Silence. Hence, if you are looking for creature comforts and fine dining restaurants, please don’t come here. This is a place reserved for people who want to escape the “noise”. It is an escapist’s paradise. Trust me on this one.

pothundy

(Pothundy Dam)

Although, Palakkad is my hometown, I discovered Nelliyampathy only ten years ago through a childhood friend. But I had often heard of this place from my relatives who stay in the foothills of Nelliyampathy in a place called Nenmara. Before you start the ascent to the hills of Nelliyampathy you get a spellbinding view of the Pothundy dam. This irrigation dam was constructed in the 19th century. It is an earth dam with an unusual feature; that its core wall was constructed out of a mixture of quick lime and jaggery.

The drive from Nenmara to Nelliyampathy is breath-taking providing spectacular views of the Pothundy dam from the many viewpoints on the way. The journey upwards takes you through ten hair pin bends and you will reach your destination in about an hour.

Mountain stream

(One of the many mountain streams)

As soon, as you reach Nelliyampathy, the first thing that will strike you is the silence. What you will hear though is the rhythms of flowing streams and the buzz of cicadas. I can advise you now, to go and visit the many famous sightseeing spots of this place. But I won’t! Instead, first take in the breeze. Get out of your car and walk through the desolate roads and soak in all the good energy.

I am compelled to quote Marie Curie here. She said, “All my life through, the new sights of nature made me rejoice like a child”. It is this joy that you will derive from the place.

So, take that road leading to the tea estates and venture into the small lanes leading you to a mountain stream. Sit down beside these streams. Touch the sparkling waters and sprinkle some on your face. Erase all your thoughts and just live in the moment. For truly, this is the unique gift of this place. Freedom and absolute abandon. If you have been to Nelliyampathy and not experienced this, then you have missed out on something.

My relatives often ask me, “What is there to do in this place?”. My answer to them is, “I go there to do nothing!”. For there is not much to do in a place like this. But that is the charm of places like these. Isn’t it? The adventure enthusiasts though can embark on a trekking trip or take an off-road jeep ride!

off road jeep

(Off road Jeep ride)

The much-famed “jeep ride”, which I have endeavoured to take a couple of times is something that I would suggest everyone to try. It might give you a backache, but it is worth it. You will marvel at the skill of these jeep drivers who will drive you through terrains you thought can never be conquered. What you will get in return is pure joy. They will take you to places where humanity is alien. In this 7 km journey through basically rocks and muddy puddles, you might just find a nice place to sit and gaze at the beautiful hills of the Western Ghats. If you want to go easy on your pocket with this one, carry a few friends along.

But if there is one thing that you should do here, is to hear the stories of the locals. Visit the many “thattukadas” (small rustic eating joints) and talk to the locals, while munching on some scrumptious meals. I assure you that they will narrate stories of the place. Stories about wildlife, the tribal population, lives of tea plantation workers, film shoots and so on. They make for some interesting hearing. Indulge the staff of your hotel as well, their hospitality and their stories will astound you in equal measure. Everyone here has a little more time on their hands than city folks.

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(Bonfire at ITL Hotel, Nelliyampathy)

As mentioned earlier, don’t come here looking for five-star luxury. Be prepared to be minimalist in approach and adventurous in spirit. However, the hotels here have all the basic amenities and are privately owned. Even if the restaurant menus carry all kinds of cuisines, do try the “nadan style” (village/native) varieties. Moreover, you may not get everything that is there on the menu.

For your stay you might also want to check out the home-stays and resorts of the place, which are decent. But don’t compare them to the ones available in the more famous hill stations. What they will provide you though is more indulgent staff members. If you go on a weekday you might be surprised to realize that you are the only one in the hotel with the entire staff at your service.

Of the many places that you should visit in Nelliyampathy is Seetharkundu. This is a picnic spot where many tourists frequently visit from Palakkad or Coimbatore during weekends. But they are mostly day visitors who leave for their homes by evening. Seetharkundu, is a viewpoint situated 8 kms away from Nelliyampathy, where Lord Rama, Laxmana and Seetha are believed to have rested during their exile.

seetharkundu

(Seetharkundu, Nelliyampathy)

The Palakkad Gap (a geographical phenomenon in the Western Ghats) which is a low mountain pass separating Coimbatore and Palakkad is visible from here. Seetharkundu is a vantage point which will give you a jaw dropping view of the valley, as it stretches out like a giant carpet for as far as the eyes can see. You might also get a glimpse of a 100-metre waterfall from here.

The place is also home to the Asian Elephant, Indian Gaur, Leopards, Bears and the Giant Squirrel, in case you are a wildlife enthusiast. But you must be lucky to spot them in the wild without effort. Palagapandi estate with its lovely tea, coffee and cardamom plantations is another popular tourist destination. The estate houses a charming bungalow which was built during the British Raj.

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(Tea estates of Nelliyampathy)

If you are a nature lover, a vagabond or just someone seeking new stories to hear, come to Nelliyampathy and it won’t disappoint you. So, pack your bags and give this place a try.

(Check out the video on the post to get an idea of what to expect from this place)

Photo credits: Ashwin Ramesh, Akash Singh and Siddhartha Krishnan

How to get there:

Nelliyampathy is located about 70 kms from Palakkad and 116 kms from Coimbatore. Getting to this place will not be a problem since the roads are very good. The nearest railway station is in Palakkad (65 kms) and the nearest airport is in Coimbatore (127 kms).

Click here for location on google maps.

Best time to visit:

The best time to visit Nelliyampathy is between October to March. During these months the nights are cool and the days moderate in temperature.
Hotels:

Online booking for most of the hotels, resorts and home stays of this place is not available. So, suggesting some of the ones I have been to or heard of:

ITL Holidays and Resorts, Nelliyampathy – its the place where I generally stay when I visit the place. The food, accommodation and service are all very decent and value for money.

Green Land Farmhouses – located near Seetharkundu it provides an excellent view of the valley. Details available on tripadvisor. Could be a good option if you are going with family and kids.

Related articles:

Nelliyampathy Hills, Palakkad. Kerala Tourism

Places to visit in Nelliyampathy. HolidayIQ.com

Nelliyampathy. Wikipedia page

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