The Goa Diary – Chapter 2 – The Places

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Pic: Baga Beach, North Goa

There is a lot that you can do in Goa. It doesn’t matter, whether you are a party animal or adventure seeker, a vagabond or history-geek, a trekker or photographer, a brooder or solitude craver, be rest assured, that you will find a place to your liking. There is something for everyone here.

But don’t make the mistake of carrying, an unrealistically long bucket list, because you won’t be able to cover everything in a single visit. There is always a next time and Goa is the kind of place you want to keep coming back to. Trust me.

In Chapter 2 of “The Goa Diary”, I will be covering some of the places, I had visited in North and South Goa, which might be of interest to you

I have provided links (easily identifiable by their font colour) in this article, which will provide you further information about these places, in case you want to delve a bit deeper.

So, let’s get started.

The Beaches:

Goa is home to more than 50 beaches (click link to get the list). The exact number is not very clear hence, I will stick to an approximate number. These beaches are divided among the 2 districts of Goa:

The North Goa Beaches – which are more crowded

The South Goa Beaches – which are mostly secluded

Depending on your preferences, you can pick and choose, the ones you want to visit. We had decided to spend the first four days in North Goa and the remaining three days in South Goa. This gave us enough time to explore some of the most famous beaches of the place.

In North Goa, the beaches we visited were Baga, Calangute, Candolim and Anjuna.

Baga – I am sure everyone has heard of this beach. It is perhaps the most famous of all the beaches in North Goa. Also, the most crowded and commercialized. There are many restaurants on the beach, where you can grab a drink and watch the sunset. The famous Tito’s nightclub and Britto’s bar and restaurant, are in close proximity to Baga. You will find people of all age groups on this beach. It’s a big party which happens every evening here. Loud music, great food, drinks, ambience – you have it all. If you are a nocturnal party animal, then this is the place to come to.

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Pic: Water sports at Baga beach

This beach is also famous for its water sports, which includes parasailing, banana rides and dolphin cruises. There are number of small shops in the tiny lanes leading to the beach, from where you could grab your souvenirs. We had made a couple of visits to this beach, since we were staying in a resort just a mile away.

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Pic: Sunset at Baga Beach

Due to the overcrowding though, the beach tends to become dirty. The other problem, I felt is the parking during evenings. Due to the massive crowds, parking could be a problem close to the beach, although you do get a paid parking service here. If you are staying close by, I would suggest, that you walk, to get here.

If you didn’t drive to Goa, like I had, and have rented a two-wheeler, then you wouldn’t be hassled much. By the way for bachelors and couples, renting a two-wheeler is the best option to travel around Goa.

Calangute – We visited Calangute beach early in the morning on the second day in Goa. This beach is the largest in North Goa and is generally crowded during the season time (Oct-April). It offers water sports activities. There is paid parking available, in the lanes leading to the beach and these lanes are slightly wider than those in Baga.

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Pic: At Calangute beach – waiting for the waves.

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Pic: At Calangute – ready to build a sandcastle.

Candolim – I found this beach to be the best in North Goa. It’s perhaps the most organized, with wide roads leading to the beach and provides proper parking facilities, inside a gated space. If you are planning to get yourself drenched, then this is a good beach to come to. I was told by a tattoo artist, who made a temporary Spiderman tattoo on my son’s arm, that the waves here are ideal for surfing.

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Pic: Euphoria at one end in Candolim

There are several nice restaurants and shops near Candolim. The beach has also hosted a number of editions of the world famous Sunburn Music Festival.

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Pic: Calmness at the other end in Candolim

The above beaches are part of a contiguous stretch, which starts from Sinquerim (a less crowded beach in North Goa, which I didn’t visit) and ends at Baga.

Anjuna – We visited Anjuna beach at night. It is located around five kilometres from Baga and is famous for its trance parties. It hosts a flea market, every Wednesday and Saturday, where you can purchase a range of products. We had come here for dinner, to one of the shacks, on the beach. I hadn’t experienced a candle-light dinner, on a beach, with the waves kissing my feet. So, this experience was on my bucket list. Since, Anjuna was expected to be less crowded than Baga, I chose Anjuna for the experience. It made more sense for me with a four-year-old around.

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Pic: Watching the waves at night is so magical.

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Pic: Chilling by the sea after a hearty meal.

3.5 kms from Anjuna beach is Chapora Fort. It is the place, where a famous scene in the Hindi movie “Dil Chahta Hain” was shot. I had been to Chapora fort, during a previous visit to Goa, hence I gave it a miss, this time around.

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Pic: the famous scene from the movie “Dil Chahta hain” at Chapora fort.

Pic credit: cocktailzindagi.com

You could also visit Vagator beach, which is another famous beach in North Goa. It is 3.5 kms from Anjuna beach. There are a lot of Western backpackers who come to Vagator and it is known for its rave culture.

The South Goa beaches in comparison to North Goa, offer seclusion and serenity. Something, that we were desperately craving for, after the frenzy of North Goa. Yes, we enjoyed the partying and merry making, but now we wanted some peace. The South Goa beaches gave us just that. Since, the beaches here are less crowded, they are much cleaner. If you are travelling with family and small kids, these beaches would be more suited to your needs.

We spent three days in South Goa and stayed in Mayfair Hideaway Spa Resort located in Betul Salcete, which is an isolated corner of South Goa. The closest beaches from our resort, were Cavelossim and Mobor and these were the beaches, we visited in this part of town.

Cavelossim – This beach is known for its white sands and contrasting black lava rocks. It is a beautiful, peaceful and calm beach. You can spend hours here without being disturbed by anyone. All you need is a nice mat and shade. If you are interested in meditation or yoga, overlooking the sea, then this is the beach to come to.

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Pic: Entry to Cavelossim beach

My wife, son and I spent an hour on this beach, collecting seashells, which are in plenty, before we decided to get drenched in the sparkling white waters. If you are interested, you could go for dolphin sighting trips from this beach.

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Pic: Cavelossim – You and I, on this beautiful day!

The landscapes around this beach are also quite stunning. It is clean, green and surrounded by paddy fields. Luxury hotel brands like Radisson and Leela have set up their Goa hotels, near Cavelossim. There are many good restaurants close to the beach which play great music and serve even better food. The one that I would suggest everyone to try, is Robin’s Ark.

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Pic: the white sands and sparkling waters of Cavelossim

Mobor – Mobor beach is just an extension of Cavelossim and is located around 3.5 kms from Cavelossim. It is a 15-minute stroll from Cavelossim to Mobor, if you don’t mind walking. We went to Mobor in the afternoon and found it quite secluded and calm. There are number of shacks here, which serve tasty food.

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Pic: Mobor beach in the afternoon

The more famous beaches in South Goa, which we chose not to visit, are Colva, Benaulim and Varca. Colva which is the most famous of the South Goa beaches is located at around 15 kms from Cavelossim. These beaches are more crowded in comparison to Cavelossim and Mobor. On the southern end of the coastline, you have Palolem and Polem beaches, which are also quite serene and peaceful. In my next visit, I would like to explore these beaches.

One beach, which we did see, but did not visit, was Betul beach. The reason – Our resort which was located at the intersection of the Sal river and the Arabian Sea, provided a stunning view of this meeting point and a portion of the Betul beach, from its infinity pool. This view was simply stunning, especially during sunset and daybreak.

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Pic: Daybreak at Mayfair resort

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Pic: Another view of the meeting point of the Sal river and Arabian Sea.

Churches and Forts:

If you a history geek and have a fascination for architecture, then you should spend a day in Panjim (also called Panaji). The Portuguese influence on Goa, especially on its architecture, is clearly visible in this part of the town. A shining example of this, are the churches of Panjim, the most famous of these are:

Basilica of Bom Jesus – This church was built in 1605 AD. I had a special interest in seeing the place, because it houses the mortal remains of Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of my school – St. Xavier’s Collegiate School, Kolkata. His mummified body is kept inside a casket which tourists can see from afar. But the next public viewing of his body will be in 2024. Public viewing happens every ten years and gains a lot of attention worldwide because the saint is believed to have had miraculous healing powers. The church is a UNESCO world heritage site and is a classic example of Baroque and Portuguese colonial architecture.

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Pic: Basilica of Bom Jesus

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Pic: the casket which holds the mummified body of St. Francis Xavier.

Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church – The beautiful white fascade of this church, will be familiar to some, because many Bollywood movie scenes have been shot here. It is once again, a classic example of the Portuguese Baroque style architecture. It was first built in 1541 as a chapel and then later replaced with a much larger church in the 1600’s, as part of Portuguese Goa’s religious expansion.

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Pic: Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Church.

The streets of Panjim are worth taking a stroll around because of its immaculate architecture, restaurants and beautiful roads. However, when visiting these places, be careful not to park your vehicle in no parking zones. You might end up paying heavy fines and wasting time on it. There are designated parking zones and I would suggest investing your time in finding those.

Panjim is also famous for its casinos and cruises which you could try. These are near the Panjim bridge on the river Mandovi. You could check out packages in Casino Pride Goa, if you are interested. It offers you a floating casino on the river.

Fort Aguada – This fort was constructed by the Portuguese in 1612, to guard against the Dutch and Marathas. It is in North Goa, 11 kms from Baga beach, located on a hilltop, near the Sinquerim beach, overlooking the Arabian Sea. The view of the Arabian Sea from this vantage point, is simply stunning. There is a lighthouse within the Fort and a freshwater spring which provides the water supply. The fort got its name from this, since Aguada means water.

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Pic: the lighthouse at Fort Aguada

The place is generally crowded during season time, and you might have to spend 10 minutes in a que to get into the fort. But it is worth it. There are shops selling refreshments outside the gates of the fort and they come in handy after a stint under the sun. A nice glass of lemon soda is just what you will need to reinvigorate yourself.

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Pic: view of the Arabian Sea from Fort Aguada.

The Food:

The food in Goa, in general, is of very good quality. Especially, the sea food. There are some fabulous dining options available in Goa, serving all kinds of cuisines – local, domestic and international. You wouldn’t need my help in figuring out where you should eat. Google will do a great job of it. Moreover, both Zomato and Swiggy, does food delivery in Goa, so that’s an added advantage, in case you are feeling too lazy to head out from your hotel or resort.

Of the restaurants that we tried; I’d like to pick one which clearly stood out for me and is not that well known:

The Station Goa

If you are driving from North to South Goa, then just after you cross Panjim, in a place called Nuvem, there is this little gem of a restaurant called – The Station.

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Pic: The Station, Goa – An old Portuguese villa converted into a restaurant.

I discovered this place by accident, since we didn’t have any specific place in mind for lunch. Hence, we just stopped at our convenience. But then, we were in for a pleasant surprise. This is a 100+ year-old Portuguese villa, that has been converted to a restaurant, which has been functional for the last 3 years. The décor is quite unique. The restaurant is spacious yet cosy and very well lit.

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Pic: The inner decor and lighting

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Pic: restaurant area – The Station Goa.

The menu is extensive, and includes American, Mexican, Italian and Goan cuisines. So, burgers, pastas and lasagnes are all on the menu. But I was looking for something simple and local. So, out came a Goan fish Thali and boy, was it good!

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Pic: Authentic Goan Fish Thali.

I really loved this place – the ambience, service and food, all were good. The prices were also reasonable, costing me just Rs 280 for a Fish Thali and a Veg Thali. If you happen to pass by Majorda or Nuvem, do stop here for lunch or dinner.

Other honourable mentions are:

Fat Fish – on the Calangute-Arpora road (North Goa) – famous for its seafood.

Robin’s Ark – near Cavelossim beach (South Goa) – highly rated.

Nautica (Mayfair Hideaway Spa resort) – Betul (South Goa) – the buffets are elaborate and food is delicious.

I’d like to sum up this section of the chapter by saying that, if you are in Goa, you must try the local cuisine. Both vegetarians and non-vegetarians have options to choose from. My wife was very happy with the Veg Xacuti that she tried, although she is generally not very adventurous with food. I believe to understand the people of a certain place, you must try out their food, because eating together is one of the great joys of life. Goa did not disappoint us one bit in this regard. I am in love with Goan cuisine and will try making some of them at home.

I would like to end this chapter by repeating what I had said in the beginning, that there is a lot to do in Goa. You will be left with a few things, that you might have wanted to do, but couldn’t. Hence, a visit to the Dudhsagar falls, an island visit, a cruise on the Mandovi river, scuba-diving and parasailing are pending. But then, I didn’t come here hoping to tick all the boxes. There is always a next time.

In the final chapter of “The Goa Diary”, I will be sharing some of my personal experiences and stories. I hope you will find that interesting. Do look out for that piece. It will be published soon.

Thanks for reading.

Photo credits:

Kavita Joshi Krishnan

Siddhartha Krishnan

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The Goa Diary – Chapter 1 – The Road Trip

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Of the many experiences, during this long vacation, the road trips undoubtedly stood out, as one of the key takeaways. If someone were to ask me, if I would like to do this again? My answer would be a definite, “Yes”. If you love the sight of tarmac, stretching out into the horizon, surrounded by natural wonders, then this chapter of The Goa Diary, is just for you.

So, let’s get started.

Out of the road trips that we had done during this vacation, including the ones within Goa, I have picked the 3 trips listed below, to share my experiences with you, because they were the most significant and memorable:

  • Bengaluru – Belgaum
  • Belgaum – North Goa
  • South Goa – Shivamogga

Note: there are multiple links in this article, which are easily identifiable by the font color. These include route maps, places, hotels etc and if you are interested to read further on any specific item, please do click those links and it will take you to the appropriate page.

Bangalore – Belgaum

There are several routes that you can take to reach North Goa from Bengaluru and these routes could take anywhere between 12-14 hours, depending on the route you take and the time you start. Since, I had a 4-year-old backpacking with me, there were a few things which I did not want to do:

  • Drive at night post 7 pm
  • Drive more than 10 hours in a day
  • Drive through isolated places in the evening

Considering the above, I felt that a night halt at Belgaum on the way to Goa would be the safest bet. My intent was to reach Belgaum as quickly as possible and save all the energy for the adventures ahead.

There are 3 routes that Google shows you to reach Belgaum from Bengaluru. The fastest and shortest route is the NH44/NH75 and NH48 route (click link for the route map).

Distance – 510 kms

Time – 9.5 hours (without breaks)

The other routes are considerably longer and will take a further 1.5 hours. There are multiple tolls on this route, but you would be predominantly driving on 4 and 6 lane roads. Also, the well-known towns of Tumkur, Davanagere and Hubli are on the way, thus making this route a viable option, when travelling with family.

We started at 6:00 am on Saturday, October 5th. Since, our vacation had coincided with the Puja holidays; a mad rush was expected at the tolls. Despite staying close to the NH, by the time we cleared the toll and headed out of the city, it was 7 am.

One thing, that you will immediately notice on this route, is the absence of decent breakfast joints. There are 2 Kamat Upachar restaurants on the way though. One is closer home near Tumkur, 1.5 hours from Bengaluru (when you aren’t that hungry) and the other at Ranebennur, 5.5 hours from Bengaluru (when you are very hungry). Unfortunately, there aren’t any good options available in between. There are Southern and Rajasthani style Dhabas, which only open post 12 noon. Hence, the best thing to do is to carry your own supplies for breakfast.

Although, this route to Belgaum is the fastest, after the first 100 odd kms, the highway is dug up at many places, owing to flyover constructions. This means diversions every 4 to 5 kms. It will take some time for this work to be completed and tourists should be mindful of this, when taking this route. It is still the fastest route, although you might get a backache at the end of the day, after having spent hours on service roads, which aren’t in great condition. I am sure, once the work is finished, this route would save a lot of travel time.

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Pic: After lunch at Apoorva resort

Unlike breakfast, lunch is not a problem, since there are a lot of options available close to Davanagere. The place that we stopped for lunch was Apoorva resort, which is on the highway. The restaurant of this resort is spacious with an extensive menu. Also, there is enough outdoor space for kids to run around. The prices are on the higher side though and a plate of chicken biriyani, might cost you upwards of Rs 300.

In terms of nature and scenic beauty, there is not much to talk about on this route except for the windmills that we saw on NH48. This wasn’t really a put off for us because we just wanted to reach Belgaum, as quickly as possible. Nature and adventure were saved for later.

Since, we had taken multiple breaks on the way, we reached Belgaum around 7 pm. Belgaum has a few good hotels which you could try, but the one that we had chosen was Native by Chancery. This hotel has clean rooms and good service. It is a good option for those heading to Goa, because it is located on the route to Goa. The complimentary breakfast next morning is nice with an elaborate spread.

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Pic: Sunset on the highway

Belgaum to North Goa via Chorla Ghat

All routes to North Goa from Belgaum, take approximately the same time, so you could take any route based on your priority, but we decided to take the Chorla Ghat route.

Distance – 120 kms

Time – 3.5 hours (without breaks)

Route – Belgaum-Jamboti-Kankumbi-Chorla-North Goa (click link for the route map)

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Pic: Into the wilderness

The Chorla Ghat is a part of the Western Ghats or the Sahyadri mountain range at an elevation of 800 metres. This is a two-lane forest route and it offers you some spectacular scenic views. The road though, was a bit scratchy at places due to the rains. So, do not make the mistake of over speeding. Be wary of the many blind spots, heavy vehicles and potholes on this route.

However, the adventure more than compensated for the slight discomfort caused. My advice would be to drive at a leisurely pace and soak in all the good energy.

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Pic: View of the valley from one of vantage points on this route

There are many vantage points on this route from where you could get some great shots of the valley. Do have a heavy breakfast before taking this route, since there aren’t many restaurants on the way, until you cross the Goa border. We managed to reach our resort, near Baga Beach in North Goa, after a leisurely 4-hour drive, well before lunch time.

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Pic: The meandering roads of this route

South Goa – Shivamogga

Distance – 310 kms

Time – 6.5 – 7 hrs (without breaks) depending on what time you start.

The route from South Goa to Shivamogga via NH66 and NH69 (click the link for the route map) is a straight one. But it meanders through beaches, rivers, jungles and passes by one of the most famous waterfalls in the country. What else could you ask for? This drive was undoubtedly one of the highlights of our vacation.

We were put up in Mayfair Hideaway Spa resort in South Goa, which is 10 kms from Cavelossim beach and we left the resort, post breakfast at around 9:30 am. The idea was to get to Shivamogga before sunset.

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Pic: On the road leading us out of Goa.

You will exit Goa via Palolem and pass by the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary before you cross over to the Karnataka side and into Karwar Port. In case you are hungry, then a short diversion towards Palolem Beach or into Karwar town would be a good option to take.

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Pic: Entrance to the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Goa

For a brief stretch after Karwar, there is deep excavation work happening through the hills to build a six-lane highway, but don’t worry you won’t be hassled much, since the roads are quite wide in this area.

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Pic: Boats lined up on the coast at Karwar

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Pic: View of the Karwar beach from the Highway

Then, the Ghat section starts and the roads slowly become desolate. As you keep going ahead on this route, the chirping of birds and screeching of the lion-tailed macaque become prominent. The road keeps meandering through multiple hair pin bends. It’s a challenging yet adventurous drive.

This two-lane road is in excellent condition, and the road engineers have put in a lot of thought to eliminate blind spots, primarily by splitting the road at corners into one-way zones at multiple places, thus minimizing the risk of head on collisions. You might be seduced to test your driving skills but try to curb your instincts and stick to the speed limits, prescribed on the sign boards, despite the beautiful tarmac and great sightlines.

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Pic: Beautiful tarmac

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Pic: The luring roads. Challenging yet adventurous.

This route is not for those who are in a hurry to reach their destination. It is for nature lovers. Whether you like it or not, you will be forced to stop multiple times, during the journey and marvel at the scenery, as well as take photographs.

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Pic: A spellbinding view from one of the vantage points.

Around 100 kms before you reach Shivamogga, is the magnificent Jog Falls. One of the highest waterfalls in the country with a drop measured at 829 feet. It has been created by the watercourse of the Sharavati river. A big arch on the right of the highway, welcomes you to the Jog Falls. It’s a very small diversion to the falls and you should take it.

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Pic: The Magnificent Jog Falls

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Pic: Another view of the Jog Falls

There is ample parking space available here and it is just a 2-minute walk from the parking lot to the spot from where you can clearly see the waterfall. There are several shops at the parking space, from where you can buy refreshments. This diversion won’t cost you more than 30 minutes and its worth your time and effort.

The Ghat section continues after you cross the Jog Falls until you start making the descent to the small town of Sagar, where there are restaurants which are famous for its Veg Thalis, in case you reach this place at lunch time. From here, Shivamogga is around 70 kms and it takes around 1.5 hours to reach your destination.

We reached Shivamogga by 6:30 pm in the evening, just as the sun was setting in the background.

Apart from the above road trips the others we had done were:

  • North Goa to South Goa
  • Shivamogga – Bengaluru

I will be briefly touching upon these in the subsequent chapters of the Goa Diary.

Next up:

In Chapter 2 of the Goa Diary – I will be telling you about the places we visited in North and South Goa. So, do look out for that piece. It will be published soon.

Thanks for reading.

Photo credits:

Kavita Joshi Krishnan

Siddhartha Krishnan

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The Image of me, in your eyes – A message from Father to Son.

Dear Son,

Should I be presenting to you, an image of myself, like many do, which befits a God?

Would it be fair on my part to keep you in that illusion?

Just because I have the power to influence you!

It is an illusion isn’t it?

Because the truth is, that I am neither an Angel nor a God!

It is a lie, the truth of which, you will find out one day, and curse me for.

If not, through your words, then through your actions.

Hence, I have decided to tell you this;

That I am flawed, and far from perfect,

And what’s more, I have made mistakes in the past, and I will in the future too.

I am helpless, and unfortunately this is my reality,

And it’s because I am only human.

But don’t worry.

All is not lost, and this is what I can vouch for;

That although, I do make mistakes,

I do also, possess the remarkable ability, to correct them, and to learn from them.

Despite falling a million times,

Miraculously, I do find the grit to rise, again and again!

And that, the thousand cuts, the ruthless world inflicts on me,

Only manages to bleed me, but not deter my zeal.

Not one bit!

You know why that is so my son?

It is because, I am human and not God,

And I am ever so thankful, that I was born as one!

And, you should too.

Photo credits for video: Adobe Spark- Pixabay- Free photos collection.

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The Power of Distraction

Distraction

Last night my son went into a frenzy while eating his meal. Not a new occurrence in the house and something we have gotten used to. But while throwing his tantrums he slipped, hit the side of his leg against the centre table but luckily fell straight on my lap. In the end there was no physical or collateral damage but for his perceived leg ache.

Hence, his frenzied behaviour went into overdrive. I was having dinner on the sofa and in an instinctive reaction I managed to divert his attention towards a glimmering light in the horizon. What I sold to him was the story of a spaceship landing from space! Although it was far from reality, he bought my story and was compelled to get distracted. Miraculously, he stopped crying in an instant. My wife who had left her plate and was standing beside him, sold the story to him with full fervour until he was completely pacified.

Although, this was not a new incident, I somehow felt the urge to brood over it. Hence, I endeavoured to pen down this thought.

I found similarities between this incident and what happens to us daily when we walk our dog. My dog is very territorial and whenever another dog approaches him, he goes into a frenzy wanting to tear the probable competitor apart. To make him come out of this hysteria we distract him by making weird sounds, much to the amusement of onlookers. We ignore their giggles because more often than not we manage to salvage the situation using this technique.

I often wonder, why small children and dogs take so little time to come out of their hysteria when distracted? Although, I am not an expert in child or dog psychology, basis my past experience I came to the conclusion that it is because their conscience is clearer than ours. They are neither biased nor egocentric. Hence, they have the remarkable ability to attain normalcy through distractions.

We, my friends on the other hand are not so lucky! On the contrary distractions are detrimental to our well being. In a world where new stories, many of which are factually questionable are being hurled at us every second, the power of distraction could prove to be fatal. These stories have the capacity to take us into a frenzy and divert us from our real issues. Since, we are biased and egoistic, unlike children we cannot come out of our hysteria and become victims of our rage. Only few manage to come out of this vicious circle while the majority gets trapped in it.

To see things factually, objectively and in isolation is the only way out of this vicious circle. But this is easier said than done. Such is the power of distraction!

Photo credit: theladders.com

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The Civil Indian

Civil

We the common yet privileged people of this great country called India, often ask each other a pertinent question,

“We are ordinary citizens. What can we do for this country?”.

Well, before we ask each other this rather romantic question let us first introspect for a moment and ask ourselves the following much easier questions:

Are we segregating our house waste?

Do we break traffic signals and drive rashly?

Do we jaywalk on roads?

Do we throw waste onto public spaces?

Do we allow an ambulance to pass conveniently in peak traffic?

Do we park our cars in no parking zones?

This list could be endless.

Thus, a few more questions emerge:

Are we doing the above right?

Do we expect others to do the above right while not doing it ourselves?

If all of us do the above right, will it not solve many of the problems of this country?

Most importantly who or what is stopping us from doing the above things right?

Fact is, that the politicians, police and civil servants did not come out of thin air. They are one of us. Hence, before we exercise our right to criticize them for their “Chalta hain” (everything is okay) attitude, let us first delve deep within and ask ourselves, “Are we guilty of the same?”.

Funnily, the above questions do not demand an extreme sacrifice from our end. Just the need to be more civil. Is that a big ask?

Before we solve the much graver issues of the world, country and economy sitting in the comfort of our AC living rooms over a peg of whiskey or a cup of coffee, can we first deal with the much smaller issues directly concerning us.

Before we call upon the right, left or centre leaning concerned citizen within us, can we first call upon just the “citizen” and ask him to be accountable?

Finally, next time we are in a public space, can we be more observant of our own behavior and thereby help in making this country great?

Jai Hind! Vande Mataram!

Happy Independence Day!

Please note: I am not an outsider I am one of you. And yes, mistakes are mistakes unless done purposefully.

About the blog

Life is a collection of stories. These stories have made us who we are today. They have the remarkable ability to connect us all. Although, we all have our individual stories, we do share common grounds and similar life experiences.

In this blog I, Siddhartha Krishnan, author and owner of this website http://www.whatsonsidsmind.com, will be sharing some of my life experiences in the form of short stories, essays, articles, travelogues, reviews etc and through them connect with you and understand where we share those common interests. This way we can collaborate and tell some great stories.

Quoting J.K.Rowling here would be apt – “There’s always room for a story that can transport people to another place.”

So, tell me, “What’s on your mind?

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How I took to writing?

Writing

One afternoon in August last year, I sat down with my laptop and decided to pen down some thoughts. It was a Saturday and there were dark clouds looming in the skies of Bangalore. The weather exemplified the state of mind that I was in that day. It had been a terrible day for me on many counts.

I could have punched the wall a few times to vent out my frustration but previous attempts at the same hadn’t resulted in anything productive, except for a few bruised fingers. But then the decision to go for my laptop instead of the wall was purely instinctive. However, as I started writing I realized that I wasn’t really writing about the causes of my current rage but about a certain incident from my childhood!

Once I was done with the first paragraph, I stopped. Since, there was no one in the house I decided to read it aloud. I did so with full fervour. When I heard the words, it dawned on me that it sounded like a short story. There was then a sudden surge of energy which propelled me to keep going for the next few hours. I was determined to not stop until I was done with the story. I succeeded.

My previous attempts at writing had resulted in miserable failures. Hence, I wondered: What was different this time? Moreover, I hadn’t written an article but a short story. How? Why? I asked myself. The mystique of it all urged me further. I decided to keep at it. Over the next few weeks, I penned down a few more short stories. Miraculously, there was no dearth of ideas and no hindrances to my imagination. The words flowed languidly. It was as if a dormant corner of my brain had just become active.

I didn’t feel stressed during this whole exercise and penned down more than ten thousand words within two weeks. Also, making time for writing didn’t feel laboured despite my work and family commitments. This was extraordinary because I am usually guilty of uttering these famous words: “I don’t have time!”. Well, I was now done with five short stories inspired from certain incidents from my childhood. Writing was secretly filling a certain void in my life. What that void was? I will explain later.

Now, I needed a medium for validation. Hence, I got introduced to blogging. It provided me the ideal platform to reach out to my audience in an instant and seek feedback. The marketing and analytical tools that blogging websites provided were an added advantage. But I was an accidental blogger at that stage. A novice. My only intent behind blogging was to find the right people to critique my work and to test the waters.

What followed were long phone calls, WhatsApp chats, coffee table conversations, focus groups and subsequent deep introspection. The stories had managed to strike a chord with many of the readers. Yes, there was criticism as well. But then I didn’t get into this being delusional about my abilities. The intent was to get better with time.

I kept on writing and finding content wasn’t difficult because the stories were inspired from life. Hence, all I needed to do was to observe. Then it was a matter of recollecting, re imagining and expressing myself creatively. Thus, a conversation with dad, visit to a hospital, exploring unknown places, a chat with a random stranger or a late-night drive were all potential content for a story.

Past life experiences deeply en grained in my subconscious mind guided every thought. The only effort I made was to let go and explore like a child. To be instinctive and not overthink. The editorial effort to clean up the excesses could happen later, I reminded myself. The focus was to tell a good story.

Over time I made new friends. My network grew. The stories contributed to that. I even got an invite to conduct a blogging workshop for kids at a school (do check out my article “Back to school” to know more).  Initially, straying off the beaten track and stepping into uncharted territory did feel like venturing into wilderness with just a backpack and a steely resolve. But eventually the joy of discovering things on my own, prevailed over apprehension. Although, there is still a very long road ahead, I made it a point to celebrate my small achievements in this journey. Every time I read out a story to my wife or my four-year-old, it felt very fulfilling.

I must admit though writing was a very lonely process. It is just you and your thoughts. But you must persevere and not waver. The only question you must ask is,

“Is this the story that I set out to write?”.

If the answer is no, then make the corrections and get back on track. If the answer is “yes” then keep at it and continue. Try and make it better. Unfortunately, “better” does not have any boundaries. There is always scope for improvement. Constructive feedback from friends helps a lot here. So, build your network of ten friends to give you honest feedback.

But seek feedback only once you are done with your piece. Seeking feedback half-way through is not advisable since, people might not get the message of your story and things could get lost in translation. That said, always be open to ideas and be ready to rewrite. It could be exhausting but it is worth it. But don’t compromise on the concept and the messaging, because that is what compelled you to write the story at the first place.

I had earlier mentioned about a void that writing managed to fill. The void is nothing but our inability to express in our daily lives. It is not a hidden fact that we are all actors. We act to survive. When we deal with family, colleagues and community in general we are forced to be diplomatic. There is a lot of talking that we do, but are robbed of our right to express our thoughts truthfully. Let’s face it, we live in a ruthless world where truth has no place. Opinions do. In writing I found a medium to express my real and naked thoughts.

Hence, through my characters, locations, atmospherics and plot twists I was able to express myself fully. Yes, I did conceal the thoughts under various genres, fictional characters and settings. This way I could say what I wanted to and still get away with it. It felt, “Bloody good!”.

But then, writing also gave me the opportunity to relive certain moments from the past, correct the wrongs, learn from mistakes and grow as a person. Hence, it became a process of self-discovery for me.

So next time you read my story, you might find me concealed within the words!

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The Storyteller

Storyteller

Many years ago, there was an inquisitive child. He loved to hear stories. Every year during school vacations when he visited his hometown in Kerala, he would spend days at the house of “the storyteller”. The storyteller was none other than his aunt. She would narrate him stories of mysterious happenings, which would have invariably unfolded close to her house. Hence, the banyan tree near the entrance, the abandoned mill at a distance or the incessant barking of stray dogs at night were all part of her stories.

The stories ranged from ghostly apparitions to alien invasions and from witch hunts to haunted houses. But it was not the story per say which would keep the child engaged. It was the way in which they were being told. The impact of which was so great that the child would be unable to sleep at night. Every time the trees swayed in the wind or the dogs howled at night, a shiver would go down his spine.

Although, the stories left him frightened, he would still be keen to hear more. The sheer brilliance of the storytelling kept him engaged. When he went back to the city after his vacations, he would narrate these stories to his school friends and observe their reaction closely. He tried to imitate his aunt as much as he could and when he managed to grab their attention his joy knew no bounds. This would go on for days until he heard the next interesting story.

That little child was me.

But my aunt wasn’t the only great storyteller in my life. My mother who told me the first stories I ever heard, my father who narrated stories of his travels across the country, my classmate who told me about his heartbreak and the movies which mesmerized me were all equally great storytellers. When I close my eyes for a minute and recall all the memorable incidents of my life, these moments figure prominently in my recollections.

Now, let me urge you to go back to your childhood. Weren’t there great storytellers in your life just like my aunt? I am sure there were. Those people in your lives who would have told you fabulous tales of magical brooms, haunted castles, fairy godmothers, divine interventions and devious poltergeists. We are sometimes guilty of undermining the contribution of these people in our lives. For the stories we hear often shape our thinking. Sometimes even determine our actions. But most importantly they make our otherwise mundane lives interesting.

If you don’t believe me, the next time someone narrates you an interesting incident that happened in your colony, make an effort to notice the excitement that it kindles within you. In other words, we might still be surrounded by good story tellers, without us even realizing their value in our lives.

If weekend parties were only about the booze, don’t you think it would be boring? Isn’t it also about that one friend in the gang who has interesting stories to narrate? So next time, you are in the company of friends, relatives or colleagues; ask yourself who is the great storyteller in this group? Acknowledge his or her role in your life.

Jimmy Neil Smith, founder and president emeritus of the International Storytelling Center said, “We are all storytellers. We all live in a network of stories. There isn’t a stronger connection between people than storytelling.”

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Nelliyampathy. An Escapist’s Paradise.

By Siddhartha Krishnan . 5 Min Read

(Note: article contains links to hotels, tourist places etc which will direct you to relevant sites on the internet)

Nestled, within a quiet little-known corner of God’s own country, in the district of Palakkad is a place called Nelliyampathy. You could call it a hill station. But I rather not. For me, Nelliyampathy is a place like no other. It has the weather of a hill station but not the fancy hotels, impatient crowds, street hawkers and amusement parks. However, this place offers you something that the famous hill stations in the country cannot provide you anymore. Silence. Hence, if you are looking for creature comforts and fine dining restaurants, please don’t come here. This is a place reserved for people who want to escape the “noise”. It is an escapist’s paradise. Trust me on this one.

pothundy

(Pothundy Dam)

Although, Palakkad is my hometown, I discovered Nelliyampathy only ten years ago through a childhood friend. But I had often heard of this place from my relatives who stay in the foothills of Nelliyampathy in a place called Nenmara. Before you start the ascent to the hills of Nelliyampathy you get a spellbinding view of the Pothundy dam. This irrigation dam was constructed in the 19th century. It is an earth dam with an unusual feature; that its core wall was constructed out of a mixture of quick lime and jaggery.

The drive from Nenmara to Nelliyampathy is breath-taking providing spectacular views of the Pothundy dam from the many viewpoints on the way. The journey upwards takes you through ten hair pin bends and you will reach your destination in about an hour.

Mountain stream

(One of the many mountain streams)

As soon, as you reach Nelliyampathy, the first thing that will strike you is the silence. What you will hear though is the rhythms of flowing streams and the buzz of cicadas. I can advise you now, to go and visit the many famous sightseeing spots of this place. But I won’t! Instead, first take in the breeze. Get out of your car and walk through the desolate roads and soak in all the good energy.

I am compelled to quote Marie Curie here. She said, “All my life through, the new sights of nature made me rejoice like a child”. It is this joy that you will derive from the place.

So, take that road leading to the tea estates and venture into the small lanes leading you to a mountain stream. Sit down beside these streams. Touch the sparkling waters and sprinkle some on your face. Erase all your thoughts and just live in the moment. For truly, this is the unique gift of this place. Freedom and absolute abandon. If you have been to Nelliyampathy and not experienced this, then you have missed out on something.

My relatives often ask me, “What is there to do in this place?”. My answer to them is, “I go there to do nothing!”. For there is not much to do in a place like this. But that is the charm of places like these. Isn’t it? The adventure enthusiasts though can embark on a trekking trip or take an off-road jeep ride!

off road jeep

(Off road Jeep ride)

The much-famed “jeep ride”, which I have endeavoured to take a couple of times is something that I would suggest everyone to try. It might give you a backache, but it is worth it. You will marvel at the skill of these jeep drivers who will drive you through terrains you thought can never be conquered. What you will get in return is pure joy. They will take you to places where humanity is alien. In this 7 km journey through basically rocks and muddy puddles, you might just find a nice place to sit and gaze at the beautiful hills of the Western Ghats. If you want to go easy on your pocket with this one, carry a few friends along.

But if there is one thing that you should do here, is to hear the stories of the locals. Visit the many “thattukadas” (small rustic eating joints) and talk to the locals, while munching on some scrumptious meals. I assure you that they will narrate stories of the place. Stories about wildlife, the tribal population, lives of tea plantation workers, film shoots and so on. They make for some interesting hearing. Indulge the staff of your hotel as well, their hospitality and their stories will astound you in equal measure. Everyone here has a little more time on their hands than city folks.

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(Bonfire at ITL Hotel, Nelliyampathy)

As mentioned earlier, don’t come here looking for five-star luxury. Be prepared to be minimalist in approach and adventurous in spirit. However, the hotels here have all the basic amenities and are privately owned. Even if the restaurant menus carry all kinds of cuisines, do try the “nadan style” (village/native) varieties. Moreover, you may not get everything that is there on the menu.

For your stay you might also want to check out the home-stays and resorts of the place, which are decent. But don’t compare them to the ones available in the more famous hill stations. What they will provide you though is more indulgent staff members. If you go on a weekday you might be surprised to realize that you are the only one in the hotel with the entire staff at your service.

Of the many places that you should visit in Nelliyampathy is Seetharkundu. This is a picnic spot where many tourists frequently visit from Palakkad or Coimbatore during weekends. But they are mostly day visitors who leave for their homes by evening. Seetharkundu, is a viewpoint situated 8 kms away from Nelliyampathy, where Lord Rama, Laxmana and Seetha are believed to have rested during their exile.

seetharkundu

(Seetharkundu, Nelliyampathy)

The Palakkad Gap (a geographical phenomenon in the Western Ghats) which is a low mountain pass separating Coimbatore and Palakkad is visible from here. Seetharkundu is a vantage point which will give you a jaw dropping view of the valley, as it stretches out like a giant carpet for as far as the eyes can see. You might also get a glimpse of a 100-metre waterfall from here.

The place is also home to the Asian Elephant, Indian Gaur, Leopards, Bears and the Giant Squirrel, in case you are a wildlife enthusiast. But you must be lucky to spot them in the wild without effort. Palagapandi estate with its lovely tea, coffee and cardamom plantations is another popular tourist destination. The estate houses a charming bungalow which was built during the British Raj.

poabs

(Tea estates of Nelliyampathy)

If you are a nature lover, a vagabond or just someone seeking new stories to hear, come to Nelliyampathy and it won’t disappoint you. So, pack your bags and give this place a try.

(Check out the video on the post to get an idea of what to expect from this place)

Photo credits: Ashwin Ramesh, Akash Singh and Siddhartha Krishnan

How to get there:

Nelliyampathy is located about 70 kms from Palakkad and 116 kms from Coimbatore. Getting to this place will not be a problem since the roads are very good. The nearest railway station is in Palakkad (65 kms) and the nearest airport is in Coimbatore (127 kms).

Click here for location on google maps.

Best time to visit:

The best time to visit Nelliyampathy is between October to March. During these months the nights are cool and the days moderate in temperature.
Hotels:

Online booking for most of the hotels, resorts and home stays of this place is not available. So, suggesting some of the ones I have been to or heard of:

ITL Holidays and Resorts, Nelliyampathy – its the place where I generally stay when I visit the place. The food, accommodation and service are all very decent and value for money.

Green Land Farmhouses – located near Seetharkundu it provides an excellent view of the valley. Details available on tripadvisor. Could be a good option if you are going with family and kids.

Related articles:

Nelliyampathy Hills, Palakkad. Kerala Tourism

Places to visit in Nelliyampathy. HolidayIQ.com

Nelliyampathy. Wikipedia page

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