Tag / traveldiaries

by whatsonsidsmind

Travel Diaries | Attappadi | Day 2

Pic description – Malleswaran Mudi as seen from a tribal hamlet in Attappadi

Written by: Siddhartha Krishnan | 6 Min Read

We woke up to a bright sunny morning. All that traveling the previous day had battered our bodies a bit. A good night’s sleep was the perfect cure for it. We stepped out of our cottage to be welcomed by the cry of peacocks calling out to their mates. They wandered around the property as freely as us. Although shy, it was clear that they had lost their fear of humans. After a cup of coffee, we took a stroll to the neighborhood store to buy a few essentials. The sky was clear that day, and the fragrant smells of the foliage renewed our vigor.

Back at the hotel, breakfast was ready. ‘Chana Bhatura’ and ‘Puttu and Kadala curry’ was on offer. An unusual combination of North and South Indian dishes, but it worked well. The young tribal boy (not giving away names for the sake of privacy) who had told us about a tribal hamlet uphill was at our service. A conversation with him brought to light places deep in the forest which were off-limits to outsiders. He spoke of mesmerizing waterfalls, viewpoints, meadows, and river streams within the forest that far surpassed, in beauty, the places we had seen so far. We couldn’t substantiate his claims, but his description of these places sparked our imagination. Our only option was to create images of these idyllic locations in our minds.

Pic description – Treetop Silent Valley Resort

However, the boy had agreed to take us to a Muduga tribal village later in the day, and that was decent consolation for us, considering we were only on a two-day trip to this mysterious, forested region. We didn’t have sufficient time to win the trust of the locals and explore more.

The area around the Silent Valley National Park is mostly dominated by the Muduga tribe. Some of the staff working in our resort were from that community. However, in Attapadi as a whole, it is the Irula tribe who are in the majority. Government estimates suggest the total tribal population to be around 35000. Approximately 80% of them are Irulas, 10% are Mudugas and 8% are Kurumbas. Each of these tribes has its unique culture, religious beliefs, and dialect which distinguishes them from each other and the settlers.

As per the Census of 1951, 90% of Attappadi’s population was tribal back then. Now that figure has been halved to 44%. This was due to the mass migration of settlers from other parts of Kerala and the nearby areas of Tamil Nadu. The steady migration of tribal people to different parts of Kerala and elsewhere was also a contributing factor, but not a defining one.

The principal sources of income of the tribal people are agriculture and livestock rearing. They grow plantain, coconut, and cereals. Minor forest produces like honey, ginger, and cardamom also contribute to their income. This region is also known for its coffee and areca nuts, but these are mostly grown by the non-tribal population. Although they now have access to all kinds of foods, their staple as hunter-gatherers initially consisted of wild roots, tubers, seeds, fruits, and meat. They have an understanding of medicinal plants and heal their sick using methods passed down by their ancestors.

The tribals of Attappadi dwell within hamlets called ‘Ooru’ which is a cluster of small houses. There are an estimated 192 hamlets scattered around Attappadi. It is to one of these hamlets we were planning to go to later in the day.

The young boy also spoke about how his ancestors traveled in the past. The distances we see on GPS were meaningless to them. The understanding of states and borders was irrelevant. They traveled on ancient trails left by their ancestors, who had a deep understanding of the forest and its dangers. They gave the forest the respect it deserved and took only what was required from it.

After breakfast, we drove to the Malleswaram Temple which we had not visited the previous day. Located in Chemmannur, at a distance of 5 km from Mukkali on the Mannarkkad – Anakkatti road, it is a place, I was told not to miss. The temple was included in the Swadesh Darshan Project of the Central Government, and the Shivaratri celebrations there are a major attraction. The festivities had recently concluded; the remains of which could be seen all around the clear, open land on the opposite side of the temple.

Pic description – Malleswaram temple at Chemmannur, Attappadi

At Malleswaram, Lord Shiva is Mallan and Goddess Parvathy is Malli. Here, the Irulas are the keeper of traditions; they hold the right to protect the rituals passed down through generations. On a normal day, the Irula priests invoke the gods three times a day to bless their land and their ventures. Their pleas reach a crescendo on Shivratri night when a group of Irula priests, and young men, venture through an ancient trail to reach the top of a mountain called the Malleswaran Mudi—the highest peak in the Attappadi Forest Reserve at an elevation of 1664 meters. The Irulas believe the mountain to be a giant Shiva Lingam. On their way, sometimes, they are attacked by elephants. But they know how to fend them off, without being overly aggressive. The priests perform rituals at the top of the mountain and spend the night there; after which the festivities are brought to an end.

To us, the temple presented a humble image. Nothing grandiose or loud. We headed in, bowed before the deities, and sought their blessings. The Malleswaran Mudi could be seen clearly from the temple. We wondered how adventurous it would be to walk on that forbidden trail with the Adivasis and spend a night on top of the sacred mountain? What kind of stories would the Irulas tell us under a starry sky in the absolute wilderness?

With these thoughts in mind, we headed back to the resort.

Pic description – At Malleswaram Temple, Attappadi

We opted for a light lunch that day and thereafter took a short nap. At 4 pm we were fresh as daisies to venture to the Muduga Ooru. We took a left on the interlocked road leading to Mukkali Junction to head uphill. This road is only used by the tribal population and outsiders are strictly prohibited as confirmed by the boards that we saw on the way. The forest got thicker with every passing mile. To be honest the seclusion did feel a bit scary. However, our young guide assured us that we were safe. “As long as you are with me, you are safe”, he asserted.

The road snaked through the hill until we reached a meadow. Two old looking tribal men were sharing a beedi a few meters ahead. We got out of the car and took jittery steps towards them. They didn’t seem too pleased to see us. One of them called out to the boy and gave him an earful. A negotiation followed. It went on for a while.

We felt helpless because we couldn’t contribute in any way to pacify the irate natives as their language was alien. Moreover, we weren’t sure if opening our mouths was a good idea in the first place. However, a cheeky grin suddenly appeared on the old man’s face, suggesting that he was pulling the mickey out of us all this while. We were shaken; not having anticipated such dry humor in the middle of a jungle.

The boy led us to a mud path that led to the village. A few curious dogs rushed towards us, sniffed, and then went about doing their business. The old man who had his eyes on us broke into a dirge. At least that’s what it sounded like. The boy didn’t seem too bothered. “He’s had a tipple. That’s all. Moreover, he is not native of this village”, he assured. We smiled; more out of relief than anything else.

As we went past a cluster of small dwellings, we realized that the natives were shy. They maintained minimal eye contact with us. Their clothes weren’t too different from the settlers, and their language sounded like a mix of many languages. Some of the words, though, were familiar. The government had built one-room concrete houses with solar panels installed on roofs. The houses also had adequate water supply.

The boy told us that in the past his ancestors used to live in improvised bamboo huts. Back then, temporary shelters were the only option because as foragers they were under constant threat of being attacked by wild animals or being ravaged by bad weather. Now these structures are built to shelter poultry and goats. We had spotted a couple of them at the entrance of the Ooru.

Jeeps with government permits were the only mode of transportation for the natives, and on our way up we did see a few pass by. Over the years, measures have been taken by the government to educate the tribal population and employ them in government jobs; so that they could be brought into the mainstream. But this was a choice given to them and not a compulsion. So many had opted not to.

Despite the calm, I could sense the discomfort. It was apparent that the Mudugas didn’t want to be disturbed by us city dwellers. Some unwanted past experiences could have been the reason behind their wariness.

A short walk took us to a clearing. We soon realized that what we were standing on was a football ground. It was netted on all sides. The panoramic view was quite stunning. To our left and right were step farms belonging to the Mudugas. During summers the danger of being attacked by elephants is quite high. The pachyderms come down the hills in search of water and plantains often leading to a man-animal conflict.

Pic description – View from a Muduga Ooru near Silent Valley National Park

“Isn’t that the Malleswaran Mudi?”, I asked the boy exuberantly, pointing at a familiar looking peak. The boy nodded in agreement. I wasn’t expecting to see the mountain from there. It was the clearest view of the sacred mountain that we had got until then. It was then that the boy told us that the Irulas believe that Shiva or Mallan was from their lineage and the Mudugas believe that Parvathy or Malli was from their tribe. Their marriage was an alliance between two tribal communities. I didn’t know what to make of it. But it made for a fascinating story!

As I drove back to the resort, I promised myself that such unconventional destinations will be on my travel list going forward. That night under a starry sky at the resort, my cousin and I were in high spirits. We made a list of places that we needed to visit. After a few drinks, such lists were inevitable. But somehow, I felt, that another visit to Attappadi was on the cards.

The next day we left for Palakkad after breakfast. We reached close to noon and after a nice, wholesome meal cooked by Amma, I crashed onto my bed to take a long nap. There was just one more place that I had to visit to culminate my holiday. A reservoir with a spectacular sunset point.

Kava Island Reservoir in Malampuzha is not a place known to tourists. But it had gained popularity among bikers and locals over the years. I drove through the meandering roads of Palakkad flanked by florescent green paddy fields on both sides. My cousin, whom I trust more than GPS when in Palakkad was there to guide me, and my parents were enjoying the sights of nature from the rear seats. It had been a while since they had been out.

Onion, plantain and chili fritters, and hot cups of tea perfectly complemented the wonderful sunset that we witnessed that day. I couldn’t have asked for a better ending to my short holiday.

Pic description – Sunset at Kava Island Reservoir, Malampuzha, Palakkad

***********************************

About the author –

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also a passionate blogger, and on his website, www.whatsonsidsmind.com, you can find his travel diaries, food stories, book recommendations, and movie reviews.

All rights reserved by whatsonsidsmind.com

by whatsonsidsmind

Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 3 – Bhimtal

Pic description: Bhimtal Lake

Written by Siddhartha Krishnan | 5 Min Read

Clear skies and a soothing breeze embraced us as soon as we exited the Chitai Temple. The day was inching towards noon, so we planned to have lunch at Garam Pani, a village en route Bhimtal, at an hour’s distance. The NH109 route that we took was a scenic one, and for most of the journey, we had the Kosi River towards our right and the green alpine hills all around for company. Since it was the dry season, the river was quite shallow and the boulders on the riverbed resembled Colonel Buendia’s pre-historic eggs from that distant afternoon when his father took him to discover ice. Construction work was underway at a few places, mainly to widen the road and build bridges. So the drive to Garam Pani took us an extra half hour.

Garam Pani, also known as Khairna, is a small hamlet in Nainital district on the banks of the river Kosi. The name Khairna comes from a namesake bridge, which connects the two sides of the Kosi River. We stopped for lunch at a small roadside joint called Tribhuvan, that had the river flowing beside it. We could walk to the river from there but were advised not to. The food was the usual fare that I had come to expect in Kumaon. To be honest, my taste buds were craving change, but, since the hotel at Bhimtal had promised variety, I asked my hankering tongue to show some civility.

Just outside the restaurant, we noticed a small temple. Beside it was a drinking water fountain that was supposedly sacred. I cannot vouch for the holiness of the water, but coming from the mountains, it was surely refreshing. I recalled seeing a similar water fountain in Antargange, in Karnataka, where the water jetted out of an idol of Nandi (the bull vahana of Lord Shiva). The locals there had claimed that the perennial water source of the fountain was a mystery.

I wondered, if there were hundreds of such fountains around India with such fascinating stories associated with them? We drank the sweet water of the fountain, cleansed our faces with it; and were now exuberant as ever.

Midway to Bhimtal from Khairna, on the Bhowali-Ranikhet (NH109) road, we halted at Kainchi Dham, a Hanuman Temple that is also the ashram of world-renowned spiritual guru, Neem Karoli Baba. Known among his followers simply as ‘Maharaj Ji’, Neem Karoli Baba came to be known to the rest of India and the world, when a few famous Americans came to learn from him in the 1960’s and 70s. In the years to come, his teachings influenced the likes of Steve Jobs, Mark Zuckerberg, Julia Roberts and many more.

A staunch devotee of Lord Hanuman (some even claim that he is an avatar of the God) the guru built the temple in 1964 and spent the last decade of his life there. However, he died in Vrindavan in 1973, and his samadhi shrine was built within the Vrindavan ashram complex.

Pic description: Kainchi Dham Temple

The temple is located on the other side of the Kosi River, and devotees must cross a bridge to enter it. It is not vast in terms of acreage, but there is always a steady crowd at this place. Tourists heading towards Bhimtal and Nainital stop by at the temple before heading towards their destinations. We went around the premise, learnt a little more about the guru, his teachings, and his influence among the masses. His picture is in almost every house and establishment in this area.

The crowds surged as the clock struck three, and we felt a slight chill in the air as the sun began to lose its glory. We got into the car to head to Bhimtal. A 45-min drive from Kainchi took us there, and we were at our hotel well before sunset.

Pic description: Bhimtal lake view from the room at Fisherman’s Lodge

Named after Bhima, the second of the Pandava brothers, from the Hindu epic Mahabharata; Bhimtal is a charming hill station within Nainital district, located at an elevation of 1370 metres. It is believed that Bhima had visited an old Shiva temple at the bank of Bhimtal lake during the period of vanvas (banishment from kingdom) of the Pandavas. Some also believe that the place could have been part of the ancient silk route.

The region boasts three hill stations, namely Nainital, Bhimtal and Naukuchiatal, that are built around beautiful lakes. The most bustling of which is Nainital. But we wanted a quiet place; quainter and more relaxed. So Bhimtal was a simple choice.

Our stay for the night was at Fisherman’s Lodge, which is located just beside the lake. On either side of the lake, there are several hotels to choose from. The hotels at Bhimtal are more city-like in terms of their decor, amenities, comforts and service. The restaurants are mostly multi-cuisine, although you may not get everything you would like.

Pic description: Room at Fisherman’s Lodge

While booking rooms on the internet, often what we get is deception. The pictures are either exaggerated or ancient! Hence, we had cultivated the habit of keeping our expectations low, so that we aren’t too disappointed when we get there. But we were in for a pleasant surprise. The rooms were exactly as we had seen in the photographs. Clean and spacious, with tastefully done interiors. The furniture, fixtures, furnishings and equipment were all of high quality. Something you would only expect in a 5-star hotel, and not a 4-star setup.

Another unique selling point of the hotel is its restaurant, that has an open-air seating area which gives an elevated, unhindered view of the lake and surrounding hills. Once I had eye-balled the food menu while checking-in, my restless tongue let go a sigh of relief as well. The poor fellow had forgotten the taste of Chinese food.

We settled into our room, took a quick shower, and rested for a while. The sun had set by then.

Pic description: taking a stroll around the lake in the evening.

Around 6pm we decided to take a stroll around the lake. Our hotel was located on the less crowded side of the lake, while all the frantic activity was happening on the other side. There are several cafes and restaurants on that side which explained the hustle. The most famous among them is the Aquarium Island Café, which is located on the lake itself. A boat takes you to the Café for a charge. We had plans at our hotel, so we gave these places a miss. However, we walked around the lake for a while, recalling all that we had experienced in the hills over the 3 days.

Pic description: View of the lake from the restaurant deck

We returned to our hotel to be welcomed by the strumming of a guitar, and a soothing voice that was humming familiar tunes. While checking-in we were made aware of a musical performance in the evening. We noticed two youngsters getting warmed up for their act under a tree on the deck. So we took the table to their right next to a bonfire. Smoke bellowed from the open grills, spiraling into the night sky to create a haze over the moon. It was a starry, dreamy night. The music slowly tugged at our heartstrings. We hummed, tapped, and swayed to the tunes. The young singer who was singing unplugged versions of popular songs, old and new, was gracious enough to take our song requests as well.

A wonderful last night in the hills it had turned out to be! One to remember for years to come. What’s more, we got our favorite delicacies for dinner too.

The next morning, we had an early breakfast and checked out of the hotel to explore Bhimtal Lake. It had the vibe of lakes of most hill stations in India, but not so frantic. I come from a city of lakes and gardens, but there is something about a hill station lake that is unmatchable. They are pristine, and the surrounding landscape makes them even more alluring. Bhimtal lake was magical that morning and its turquoise waters were inviting. We opted for a paddle boat and took turns to paddle around the vast expanse of the water body. We got a closer view of the hills from the lake, and roads that snaked through it that were invisible to the naked eye from the hotel room.

After paddling for 30 mins, we snacked on noodles and pani poori. There are many street vendors selling food items near the lake. You can also pick up souvenirs from the many shops selling handicrafts.

At this point, we had originally planned to bring our Himalayan sojourn to an end. But our cab driver had other ideas. He suggested that we take a small diversion to Naukuchiatal which was just 20 mins away. It was only 11 am, so we had time on our hands. Hence, we went ahead to see the unplanned addition to the itinerary.

On the way, we saw a Hanuman Temple, quite famous in the area, that housed a 52 feet tall statue of the God. We stopped to have a look. The temple, like the many others in Kumaon, provided a scenic view of the valley. In the skies, we noticed a few adventurers paragliding. We had run out of time, so that adventure had to wait.

Pic description: Hanuman Temple near Naukuchiatal

We reached Naukuchiatal shortly after. The place was much quieter, and it felt like a younger brother of Bhimtal. There were far lesser shops and establishments here. But the place was no less charming. It, too, had an idyllic lake as a prized possession. This time, we opted for a shikara ride that costs Rs 600 per family. The boat was beautifully decorated. We glided in the pristine waters, listening to the stories of the boatman, and making most of the little time we had left in the hills—singing songs, stroking the ripples and taking photographs.

Pic description: Shikara ride at Naukuchiatal lake

Once done, with a heavy heart, we resigned to the fact that our brief stay in Dev Bhoomi was over. There is so much more to do in this Himalayan paradise. But it cannot be done in just a few days. Uttarakhand, the land of mountains, of temples, of faith, folklores and history, needs multiple visits to explore its diversity, heritage and culture. And as we sat in the car to head to the plains, we made a promise to come back, sooner than later. And if things worked out, maybe, just maybe, build a house within the alpine forests and its perfumed air someday. Well, humans and their lofty dreams.

About the author –

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also a passionate blogger, and on his website, www.whatsonsidsmind.com, you can find his travel diaries, food stories, book recommendations and movie reviews.

All rights reserved by whatsonsidsmind.com

by whatsonsidsmind

Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 2 – Kasar Devi

Pic description – Stairs leading to the Kasar Devi Temple

Written by Siddhartha Krishnan | 5 Min Read

(Note: This article contains links of routes, hotels and tourist places for potential travelers)

If there was any semblance of fatigue that had crept into our system after the activities at Mukteshwar, it was quickly vanquished by a surge of excitement that we felt once our cab took the sharp left onto the Mukteshwar-Shaitla road to head towards Almora. The route adorned with alpine trees offered spectacular views of the snow-capped Himalayas, keeping our spirits high. It was a bright, sunny afternoon, with the temperature hovering around a pleasant 12 degrees. Although the drive to Almora was only 2 hours long, we took several breaks in between.

Nature had come alive—birds sang and leaves fluttered merrily in the perfumed air that caressed our cheeks. These hills are used by the Indian Veterinary Research Institute (IVRI) for medicinal research, which explained—the aromatic air that we breathed. My only regret was that our smartphones could not fully capture the magisterial beauty of the Himalayan peaks. Well, I guess, some things are just meant to savor.

We reached a small town called Deoli around 2pm and stopped for lunch. Again, the menu at the restaurant resembled the ones I had seen before. However, there were several local sweet dishes on the menu to satisfy my sugar cravings. At Mukteshwar, I had tried an indigenous lentil gravy called ‘gahat ki dal’. This time I opted for another lentil dish called ‘bhat ki chudkani’, while my wife dug into an aloo paratha and my son happily slurped his noodle soup. We also ordered a sweet dish called “singori or singodi”—which tastes similar to kalakhand. It is made of khoya and is wrapped in maalu leaf which lends its unique flavour to the dish.

Pic description – ‘bhat ki chudkani’ a local dish

Post lunch we made our way to Almora town which was another 10 kms from Deoli. Located at an altitude of 1642 meters above sea level, Almora is one of the more populous towns of Kumaon. It was founded in 1568 by Kalyan Chand from the Chand dynasty. However, the place finds a mention in ancient lore, specifically in the Vishnu Purana and the Mahabharata.

Energized by the delightful meal, my wife started narrating her childhood stories at Almora to our cab driver, who was also a native of the place. I was listening attentively to her stories, some of which I had heard before, without her knowing. My phone secretly captured their conversation.

Twenty minutes later, we reached Almora mall road. The town was a departure from the solitude of Mukteshwar. It was bustling and had several commercial establishments, concrete buildings and tiny shops adorning its hills. You could either take the road that snaked across the hills or take a flight of stairs to reach these structures. We took the stairs to reach the 200-year-old house that happened to be my wife’s maternal home, which she hadn’t visited in 25 years. It was abandoned at the turn of the century due to a freak accident. Thereafter, only the ground floor was occupied by tenants, who were kind enough to show us around. It was my wife’s homecoming, and I had geared myself up for an emotional encounter.

Pic description – 200-year-old house at Almora

Surprisingly, after entering the house, she showed remarkable maturity to control her emotions and to go on narrating her stories. It was then that a thought came to mind that the random videos I was shooting in the house had the potential to be made into a short documentary. Since the experience did not get reduced to a sob fest, it now had all the right ingredients—the thrill of an expedition, compelling stories, sufficient tangible material to document, and an unexpected comic relief—my son. For him, everything was so unfamiliar that he couldn’t stop talking, thereby providing comedic relief to what was otherwise an emotional homecoming. You can watch the short documentary in the link below –

(165) The Homecoming | Short Documentary | 200 Year Old House | Uttarakhand – YouTube

We spent over an hour at the place. It seemed like time had come to a standstill on the upper floors of the house. But the homecoming was complete. We got what we had come looking for.

Pic description – an old family album found in the house.

As the sun began to set, we bid farewell to the tenants and headed towards Kasar Devi—8 kms uphill from Almora. Our stay for the night was a slightly more commercial set-up compared to the rustic vibes of the cottage at Mukteshwar. Mohan’s Binsar Retreat at Kasar Devi is a well-known resort in the area that provides tourists with the necessary creature comforts. The resort offers semi-luxurious cottages that cater to all kinds of tourists. It also has a multi-cuisine restaurant. But the big selling point is that it offers a splendid view of the valley and the rising sun. My son was thrilled to find a small children’s room within the cottage. He wove his own stories around it and called it the ‘secret room’.

Pic description – sunrise at Mohan’s Binsar Retreat

The dinner buffet comprised mostly local dishes, and they tasted okay. Nothing to ride home about. The breakfast next morning, though, was a lot more satisfying, with food options catering to a more diverse crowd. Since this is a resort that is trying to appeal to urban tourists across India, I felt they could have given more thought to the menu. The staff, though, was courteous.

Pic description – cottage at Mohan’s Binsar Retreat

On the terrace at the entrance of the resort, we got a panoramic view of the Himalayas. We spent some time there before heading to our next destination—Bhimtal. En route, we were going to make a few stops. On our list were a few famous temples of the region. Two of which I am going to write about in this article:

Kasar Devi Temple – Considered among the 108 Shakti Peeths dedicated to the Goddess, the origins of this Devi temple date back to the 2nd century CE. However, it came to prominence after Swami Vivekananda visited this place in 1890. It is believed that within a cave near this temple; he had performed the most severe forms of spiritual practices, and had a life-changing spiritual experience. Thereafter, several seekers have visited Kasar Devi, and these celebrated personalities include—Rabindranath Tagore, Alfred Sorenson, DH Lawrence, Bob Dylan and Walter Evans-Wentz.

Pic description – Kasar Devi Temple

The temple complex is also famous because it is positioned on earth’s Van Allen Belt—a zone of energy charged particles that are captured and held around by the planet’s magnetosphere. The geo-magnetic field is on par with two similar well-known places—Machu Picchu and Stonehenge, as confirmed by NASA explorations.

It is a steep climb to the hilltop where the temple is located, but once there, you can feel the serenity and energy of the place. The ridge around the temple offers a splendid panoramic view of the valley, surrounding hills, and the Himalayas. One can spend hours here to cancel thoughts, and just be in the moment.

I am not a deeply religious person. But I do like visiting ancient temples, mosques, churches and other religious sites, for the simple reason that they are all part of the human story. Their existence confirms humanity’s continuous endeavor to find meaning in life. They are also often places of great beauty and art. And man, being the storytelling animal, needs such places to tell stories of faith, beliefs and spiritual experiences.

We bowed to the Goddess at Kasar Devi, and then spent a few minutes gazing at the imposing Himalayan peak (clearly visible from the temple) and soaked in the rejuvenating vibes.

Chitai Golu Devta Temple – Our third day at the hills was dedicated to visiting temples. Uttarakhand is called ‘Dev Bhoomi’ for a reason. Blessed with nature, it is the land of many gods and goddesses. Almost every hill station has a famous temple. Almora too has its share, one of which is the Chitai temple located 9 kms from Kasar Devi. It was a minor diversion from our route to Bhimtal, but we took it because my wife had fond memories of the temple. It was a place she frequented as a child.

Pic description – a shop selling bells outside Golu Devta Temple

Once there, you cannot miss the shops selling bells of all sizes. The practice is to inscribe your name on the bell, ask for a wish to be fulfilled by the God, and then tie the bell to a post or pillar, or wherever you find space within the temple. Some people even write down their wishes on a piece of paper and tie them along with the bell.

Pic description – inside Chitai Golu Devta Temple

The temple dedicated to Golu Devta (an incarnation of Lord Shiva) overwhelms you as soon as you enter it. It is one-of-a-kind; the sight of thousands of bells, from small to big, with letters tied around them, containing the prayers of strangers, evokes myriad emotions. We tied our bells in a tiny little space that we found within a sea of bells. It was a humbling experience.

Note: Beware of monkeys at the temple. They are a mischievous lot, so carry food items at your own risk.

…

In the next chapter of Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand, we make our way downhill to Bhimtal –

  • En route we stop at the famous ‘Kainchi Dham’ an ashram established by Neem Karoli Baba, the seer, whose teachings had a profound impact on the lives of famous people like Steve Jobs, Mark Zuckerberg and Julia Roberts.
  • Bhimtal and its adjacent Naukuchiatal, are towns with the most beautiful lakes. We go exploring what’s on offer at these lakes.
  • Our last night at the hills turned out to be a musical affair.

…

This and more next week in the next chapter of Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 3 – Bhimtal

 

About the author –

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also a passionate blogger, and on his website, www.whatsonsidsmind.com, you can find his travel diaries, food stories, book recommendations and movie reviews.

All rights reserved by whatsonsidsmind.com

 

by whatsonsidsmind

Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 1 – Mukteshwar

Pic description – View-Point near ‘Chauli ki Jali’ at Mukteshwar

Written by Siddhartha Krishnan | 7 Min Read

(Note: write-up contains links to help potential travelers with route maps and details of places, things etc.)

At the start of the year, it had dawned on me, that I haven’t written enough travelogues considering, that I have traveled somewhat in the last two years. I’d like to travel more this year; but this section titled ‘travel diaries’ is an attempt to revisit some of my travel stories from the past year and share them with you. In doing so if I am to help prospective travelers to these places, so be it.

To celebrate Christmas and New year last year, we as a family had made a journey up North to the ‘Land of the Gods’ or what the natives call ‘Dev Bhoomi’. Uttarakhand is a North Indian state that is crossed by the highest as well as the youngest mountain range in the world — ‘The Himalayas’. Divided into two regions—Kumaon and Garhwal, the state borders Tibet to the north, Nepal to the east, and Indian states Uttar Pradesh to the south and Himachal Pradesh to the west and north-west. My wife’s ancestral origins are in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. Hence, saying that we didn’t get a chance to visit this beautiful state in the 12 years of our marriage is a shame. But that’s how luck would have it for us.

Pic description – View of the valley at Mukteshwar

Our Himalayan sojourn was planned for 4 days (25th – 28th Dec 2022). Since my wife was the only one to have a body memory of living in cold climates as this, and that too a long time ago, we didn’t want to be too adventurous, at least with our on-road travel plans considering we had an eight-year-old who becomes nauseous 2 hours into any drive. So early morning and night drives was off our list.

There are innumerable hill stations in Uttarakhand, and hence covering all in just one or two visits is impossible. We had charted out our destinations, keeping in mind that the travel time between these destinations should not exceed 3 hrs. Moreover, due to the paucity of time, we had to be wise with our selections.

We zeroed in on 3 locations for the 3 nights that we were to spend in the hills, and they were—Mukteshwar, Kasar Devi and Bhimtal. We decided to hit the highest and coldest place on the list first and work our way down to more pleasant temperatures. In this blog, I will share my travel story at Mukteshwar.

Pic description – Pit stops En route Mukteshwar

We began our journey from Haldwani, which is in the foothills of the Himalayas and is the largest city in Kumaon region. The town is well-connected by road and rail to all major cities in North India. It was established in 1834 as a mart for hill people to visit during winter. To reach here, we had taken a 2.5-hour flight from Bangalore (our hometown) to Bareilly in Uttar Pradesh. We reached in the afternoon of 24th Dec. From Bareilly to Haldwani is around 100 kms which took another 2.5 hours by car. My wife’s aunt stays in the town, and she played an excellent host treating us to some delectable home-cooked food. On Christmas day, we left Haldwani after breakfast around 9 am, and planned to reach Mukteshwar by lunch time.

At 2171 metres (7500 feet) above sea level, Mukteshwar is one of the highest hill stations of Kumaon located in Nainital district of Uttarakhand. The drive to Mukteshwar from Haldwani is a pleasant one. The road (Bhatelia – Dhanachuli – Bhimtal Rd to Dhari – Bhatelia Rd/Dhari-Pokrad Rd/Link Rd) is largely good, but in case you are not used to driving in this terrain, I would suggest taking a cab the first time, like we did. Without stops it takes approximately 2.5 hrs to reach Mukteshwar from Haldwani. Since our check in time was at 1 pm, we decided to stop over for refreshments on the way. What we got was a local favorite—Potato and onion pakoras (fritters) with ‘bhang (hemp seeds) ki chutney’. Don’t worry the hemp seeds do not have psychoactive properties like the leaves. The ‘pakoras’ are also served with a tangy pomegranate chutney. A perfect snack for the weather.

We reached Mukteshwar town around 12 noon. One thing, that you need to be prepared for when visiting this part of Kumaon, is the absence of multi-cuisine restaurants en route to the hill stations. The restaurants here serve local cuisine which mostly comprises lentils indigenous to the area along with roti or rice. Other than that, you are bound to get your choice of parathas and … oh yes, Maggi! If you are lucky, you might see noodles or fried rice on the menu at these quaint roadside joints. Also, since these hill stations house sacred Hindu temples, so don’t expect too many non-veg options on the menu. At the most you might find one or two chicken dishes since the locals are mostly vegetarians. This was true of even the resorts of the area. I wasn’t complaining as long as I had that one chicken dish and eggs on the menu, to satiate my protein cravings.

Pic description – our home for the night – El Sueno by SaffronStays

We stopped over at a joint that gave us a splendid view of the valley. Post a light lunch we left for our abode for the day. El Sueno by Saffron Stays is a two-room cottage located within step farms where the locals grow apples, peaches, plums and apricots, in a village called Darima. The place is 13 kms downhill from Mukteshwar town which takes around 30 mins to reach. Since it is in the middle of nowhere, it is easy to miss and drive past it. My suggestion would be to contact the property manager for the exact location.

The cottage resembles houses typical of the area with a few creature comforts. Don’t come here looking for five-star facilities despite the slightly steep pricing which was accentuated by the holiday season. It is the experience that they are selling you. The rooms were unlike anything I had seen before. It had carpeted mud floors, wooden ceilings, stone walls and a fireplace. The owners have done the interiors tastefully, and I was happy to find a stack of books near the bed.

The temperature slips to sub-zero at night occasionally during the last week of December. And early mornings and evenings will see temperatures close to zero. So don’t bother with the portable heaters; the fireplace is the only refuge. We had no reason to complain because we had sought this adventurous, rustic and off-beat experience. Moreover, the verandah of our cottage provided a lovely view of the surrounding step farms, which I was told, looks spectacular during snow and during full bloom. I could imagine what it would look like.

Pic description – The room at El-Sueno, SaffronStays, Mukteshwar

After a quick break, we took a stroll down the hill to the farms. The staff at our cottage were local villagers. Our property manager’s uncle guided us through the step farms. He was generous enough to indulge us; tell us stories of the land and give us a peek into the local life by inviting us for a cup of tea to his house. It was fascinating to hear his stories. Of, how life had changed for him over the years, from the days when he used to walk from one hill to another to reach a school or market, as a child, to now seeing electricity, roads and other facilities come to his village. As a storyteller, I couldn’t have asked for more and the excitement in his eyes was unmissable. The one thing that I did realize was that these are proud people. They are proud of their heritage and culture and in no way consider themselves inferior to city folk—I liked that.

Pic description – bonding with the village folk. Right in pic is my son.

As the sun began to set, we felt the temperature plummeting. So, we made a dash to the cottage and ordered a few snacks. If you pay a visit here or to any farm stay in the area, please be mindful of the low night temperatures. It is, therefore, not right to expect the staff to be at your disposal all night. Be kind.

You might also not get an exhaustive food menu. What you are assured, though, is scrumptious homely food, clean air and a nice rustic vibe. My wife and I, spent the evening near the fireplace, sipping wine, telling each other stories of such fireplaces and bonfires from our past, while gazing at the waves of tiny shimmering lights that had draped the hills of the horizon. Our boy had quickly learnt how to keep the fireplace going. He lent a helping hand, and it kept him busy through the evening.

At Bangalore, I was doubtful when my wife had told me about the innumerable hill stations in Uttarakhand. I thought they were all part of a continuum. In the South we are not used to seeing so many hill stations within such close proximity. But I was wrong! Uttarakhand, I can now conclude is the ‘Goa of Hill Stations’. Every 30-40 kms a hill station crops up, out of nowhere, that has its own unique terrain, culture and history. It will take a number of visits to see all of it.

Pic description – that’s him at the fireplace

The next day after breakfast we left for Mukteshwar town to do some sight-seeing. On our list was the Mukteshwar Dham Temple, a short trek through a nature trail and a scenic spot called ‘Chauli ki Jali’. A 7-min drive from Mukteshwar town takes you to the Mukteshwar Dham temple area. It is within this area that all the other scenic spots are to be found. The whole sight-seeing exercise takes around 2 hours; that is if you are interested in exploring all of them. We took a guide to help us around for a fee of Rs 300. Let me give you a quick rundown of what to expect here –

Pic description – Mukteshwar Dham Temple. Pic credit – Times of India

  • Mukteshwar Dham Temple – This 350-year-old Shiva temple is located on top of a hill. Typical of the temples here, it is a small shrine, and a flight of stone stairs take you to the deity. Lord Shiva is believed to have slayed a demon here and granted him salvation (Mukti), hence the name Mukteshwar. Please expect a crowd at this place especially on weekends and holidays. And a waiting time of 30 mins is to be anticipated to see the deity because only one family is allowed within the sanctum at a time. Food stalls selling Malta juice (indigenous to the place), Kadhi Chawal, Rajma Chawal, Parathas and Maggi line up the area leading to stairs of the temple.
  • Nature trail–After a visit to the temple you can go on a trek through a nature trail around the temple. It doesn’t feel exactly like a forest, but more like a nature reserve of fruit orchards and coniferous trees. A serene place for nature lovers to take photographs.

Pic description – below ‘Chauli ki Jali’

  • Chauli Ki Jali–The name literally translates to a hole in the rock. According to local legend, if women wanting to have children climb this rock and put their heads through the hole, they are blessed with healthy offspring by the gods. I don’t how true that has turned out to be for the believers, but our guide had warned us not to climb the rock without assistance since accidents have been frequent lately.
  • Viewpoint–Next to ‘Chauli to Jali’ is a vantage point that provides a splendid view of the valley. There is a telescope on offer here to view a Himalayan peak for a measly sum of Rs 20.
  • Adventure Sports–If you are an adventure enthusiast, you can go for paragliding or zip lining options available near ‘Chauli Ki Jali’. Zip lining is allowed for kids as well, so my son (that’s him in the video) and I had tried it out. I found it safe enough to take the plunge despite a fear of heights. It costs Rs 600 per person.

We spent close to 2 hours at the Mukteshwar Dham temple area. At the end of it, we got what we had expected from the place—nature, adventure and a taste of something new, so we were happy!

…

In the next chapter of Travel Diaries – Uttarakhand | Chapter 2 – Kasar Devi

…

  • We take a 3-hr drive from Mukteshwar to Kasar Devi. A fascinating journey through a forest reserve offering spectacular views of the Himalayas.
  • En route we stop at a 200-year-old house which happens to be my wife’s maternal home. A place she hadn’t visited in 25 years.
  • The next day we visit Kasar Devi temple, a place believed to be endowed with a cosmic energy similar to Stonehenge and Machu Picchu.

This and more, coming up next week.

Siddhartha Krishnan is the author of Two and a Half Rainbows – A Collection of Short Stories. He is also a passionate blogger and, on his website, www.whatsonsidsmind.com, you can find his travel diaries, food stories, book recommendations and movie reviews.

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2023@Whatsonsidsmind | Travel | Food | Books | Movies

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